Travel Report: Old Amersham, England.
Old Amersham.
August 2019.
I’ve always been just a little envious of people who’ve had the same family house all their lives. That sense of safety and stability I’m guessing you get whenever you return home. Especially in a small town or village, where the changes over the decades are somewhat gradual compared to those in one’s life. Or indeed the world at large.
Not that I would trade this in for all the house hopping I experienced as a child… teen… and even adult. Despite my family’s near incessant vagabonding, there have been a few places that I’ll always identify as home. One of these is the English village of Old Amersham in the leafy county of Buckinghamshire.
High Street, Old Amersham.
Set in a wonderfully green valley of The River Misbourne, Old Amersham is a charming, pre-Victorian market community situated at the foot of the larger and more modern Amersham-on-the-Hill.
My family, consisting of yours truly, mum, dad and sister Natalie, arrived in the mid 1980s from the nearby town of Chesham. I would have been seven or eight years old. While I don’t remember the actual move, I do recall a great deal of the idyllic five years I spent here before leaving for military boarding school in 1990.
Old Amersham.
Home. 1985-1990.
We lived in a modest council house on School Lane, just a five-minute walk from the High Street. Thirty years later and it’s amazing how little the lane has changed. It’s still incredibly green and, for the most part, quiet and family oriented. I hate to employ such an overused word but… walking back down School Lane as a 41 year old was… surreal.
Our former home in School Lane.
This is where my most memorable childhood years unfurled. A house in which I would wake up early on Sundays to prepare puppet shows for my baby sister from behind the living room sofa.
Where I watched all those classic Disney films for the first time on VHS. The home where I hungrily consumed books by Roald Dahl and Robin Jarvis. Where I collected He-Man and Star Wars action figures and celebrated numerous birthdays and Christmases.
Natalie at School Lane, 1989.
The house looks much like it did when I was a kid. That’s my sister and the family cat Shelly in the window. Back in 2008 I briefly had the opportunity to pass through Old Amersham. Stopping by my former homestead, I discovered that the current tenants were also Thomases. Not sure if they’re still living there.
St Mary’s C of E Primary School.
Leighton Woz Ere.
Getting to school every day was certainly a piece of cake! In fact, St Mary’s C of E Primary School was right next door! It took me about thirty seconds to walk to the entrance steps each morning. Moreover, I had the option of going home for lunch, while the others had to deal with whatever there was in the canteen.
St Mary’s Church of England School, Old Amersham.
We used to play football during break time. Usually, the ball would fly over the fence into our garden at least once. “Muuuum” I’d call, “Can you throw the ball back?” The headmaster at the time was a lovely man by the name of Mr. Durrant, while I also remember a few teachers, Mr. Marchant and Miss Coventry.
Mr. Durrant.
Unfortunately, I’ve forgotten the names and faces of so many of my classmates. Nevertheless, I can still dig out the likes of David King, James Hart, Lisa Bowler, Lisa Gilbert and Claire Edgecombe.
School Lane, Old Amersham.
Our other neighbour was a somewhat temperamental old lady by the name of Marie Last. She had a son called Flossy, who used to come to visit with his own child, Matthew. For a while Matthew and I were as thick as thieves, until we fell out over some mystery disagreement.
Whatever the problem was, we never did patch things up. For the most Family Thomas managed to remain cordial with Marie. Although I can still visualise the day she angrily confronted my father, accusing Natalie of “making funny faces” at her. “I was smiling!” my sister protested.
Old Amersham.
School Lane, Old Amersham.
A young family lived next door down from Marie. I can’t remember their surname, but the dad and son were both called Nigel. There was also a little girl and one day she ended up losing consciousness face down in a paddling pool in their front garden.
I can still hear the mother screaming and picture my mum rushing over to give the girl the kiss of life. She survived of course and my mum got a bouquet of flowers from the family.
Barn Meadow Recreation Ground.
I spent the vast majority of those 1980s summers playing in Barn Meadow with my friends. The green looks rather modest to me now, but as an eight year old it felt like a whole other planet. Our favourite pastime was a game called Bike Spreaders. Mounted on our various bicycles, we’d decide among ourselves who was going to be The Spreader.
Giving us a twenty second head start, The Spreader proceeded to hunt one of us down. To make a catch, all he or she had to do was touch someone. Either by hand, bumping tires or even crashing mercilessly into the side of them. Once caught, you become a spreader too. And so the chain goes on until the winner is the last guy left uncaught.
Barn Meadow.
Barn Meadow Pavilion.
This is Barn Meadow Pavilion, a multi purpose event venue managed by the local council. Back in our day, my mum and her friend Dotty ran a playgroup from here for local mothers and their children. It was a fairly new building at the time, though before that a cricket pavilion once stood here.
Barn Meadow Playground.
Barn Meadow is also home to a children’s playground. I was sad to note the disappearance of the grass tennis courts that used to lie to the side of the swings. After hours in front of the TV watching the likes of Boris Becker, John McEnroe and Stefan Edberg at Wimbledon, I would often hit the courts to nurture my own tennis skills.
To play, you had to put a pound in the metre, which gave you something like an hour. Needless to say my friends and I dodged paying as much as we could. From time to time, an old man by the name of John would keep watch and scold us if he saw we hadn’t paid our dues. The poor guy was a burn victim with a badly disfigured face. I was terrified of him and always promptly paid up whenever he caught me out.
Old Amersham.
Barn Meadow Community Hall.
I couldn’t believe that my old youth club still stands, looking much as it did when I was a kid. It was called The 61 Club, run by a lovely guy called Jeff Keedle.
Once a week I’d come to play football, hang out with friends and stuff myself at the tuck shop. There were even a few dance nights. Sadly, Jeff passed away in 1996 and now his daughter Denise oversees today’s community hall.
Old Amersham.
There were more memories whirring around my head at The Maltings, located right across from Barn Meadow Community Hall. Home to both residential and professional buildings, this compound has a long and interesting history. It has been home to a brewery, a fabric print studio and craft workshops.
Furthermore, several episodes of the acclaimed TV series Midsomer Murders were filmed here in the mid noughties. All the buildings are brick and flint creations dating back to the 17th century. You used to be able to walk inside, but an iron gate now keeps riff raff like me out.
“Poppadum Peach!!!”
As kids, we believed The Maltings was haunted. Hence I wouldn’t go anywhere near the place after dark. In the daytime though, I’d occasionally come to listen to the radio through one of the grates in the wall. Yes…. I was a strange kid.
I figured I was listening into a workshop of some kind and can clearly remember hearing Madonna’s Papa Don’t Preach for the first time. Although I couldn’t hear the lyrics clearly and ended up singing “poppadum peach”.
The Eagle.
The Eagle Pub.
A narrow section of The River Misbourne runs along Barn Meadow’s High Street side. This is where I’d come to hunt for minnows with my fishing net. A favourite spot was the wooden footbridge leading to The Eagle, a traditional pub specialising in real ales and craft beer. Many years later, as a teenager, my college friends and I would frequent The Eagle for a few pints on the weekend.
Old Amersham.
The river widens a little further along from The Eagle. This leafy alley connects the meadow to Mill Lane, where my friends Simon and Jono lived. One summer, I built a camp here using whatever sticks and branches we found lying around.
Inside, I buried my pocket money and a few treasured trinkets for supposed safekeeping. Come to think of it, I wonder if there’s perhaps something still in there somewhere!
One afternoon, a family friend, the now sadly departed Ray Knight, took me trout fishing by the bridge. I think we caught something significant, but the details elude me.
Mill Meadow.
Right by that bridge, at the entrance to Mill Lane, stands a gorgeous townhouse by the name of Mill Meadow. In my child’s mind this was the fanciest place in Old Amersham and every time I passed it I couldn’t help but stop and stare.
The place was like a damn castle, with its own set of gates and two or three amazing cars in the drive. One summer I actually got to wash one of those cars when I went around town with a bucket and sponge offering my dubious services.
What To See & Do, Old Amersham.
Old Amersham.
I believe I can trace the roots of my lifelong sweet tooth right back to Broadway Newsagency. I came here countless times to stock up on penny sweets, fizzy drinks, Panini football stickers and the latest copy of the Beano and Dandy comic books.
The owners were a lovely Indian couple, The Patels. I even went to school with their son Yateen at St. Mary’s. In 2008 I took this somewhat hasty shot of the place, unaware that it would be the last time I laid eyes on it.
Twelve Twenty Cafe.
During my most recent visit, I was surprised to see that the old newsagents has been transformed into Old Amersham’s best-loved cafe. Whether you’re in for craft coffee, a full English, sandwiches, waffles, burgers or the daily special, Bistro Twelve Twenty delivers some of the best food in town.
The spirit of Broadway Newsagency lives on.
Best of all, they haven’t forgotten the building’s history. In fact, a giant Broadway Newsagency sign dominates the back wall of the tiny interior. There are also old photos of the building and the street, which made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. The Patels are very proud, I’m sure.
Peace Garden.
Old Amersham.
England’s parks and gardens are often the envy of the world. Even, it seems, in tiny villages most people have never heard of. In Old Amersham they have a small garden on the High Street that reinvents itself according to the season. In July 2019, just a month prior to my visit, local authorities unveiled the exceptionally endearing Peace Garden.
Peace Garden.
Bursting with colour and character, local volunteers created a gorgeous space home to magnificent floral displays, animal sculptures, a mini waterfall and a bridge. Local businesses stepped in with donations, while the kids at my old school, St Mary’s, contributed a charming flower box based on the story of Noah’s Ark.
Memorial to The Great War.
The garden also features a memorial statue to those locals who fell during The First World War. It really is an exceptional space, no wonder the team behind it won a Gold Award at the Britain in Bloom National Finals.
St Mary’s Parish Church.
Old Amersham.
St. Mary’s Parish Church lies just a few dozen steps from the War Memorial. A house of worship of some description has stood here since around 1140, while the current structure dates back to the 13th century.
Inside St. Mary’s Parish Church.
As a kid, my classmates and I used to visit for the occasional Sunday service. We also poured in every December for Christmas Carols. One time, I vaguely remember reading something to a packed house of kids, parents and locals. Sadly, I cannot for the life of me recollect the text or indeed the nature of the service.
The graveyard at St Mary’s.
The church graveyard is really charming too, like something out of a Dickens novel. If you have the time (I didn’t), it could be interesting to seek out the headstone belonging to Ruth Hornby (1926-1955). Known in her day as Ruth Ellis, she was the last woman to be hanged in Britain after she murdered her lover.
Four Weddings and a Funeral.
The Crown Hotel.
There are some stunning hotels, guesthouses and bed and breakfasts scattered around Old Amersham. If you can splash out and want something with historical significance, consider The Crown Hotel on The High Street.
Built in the 16th century, the building has played host to a number of well-to-do families and comes with a few enduring ghost stories.
The Crown Hotel.
In the summer of 1993, film director Mike Newell arrived in Old Amersham with his cast and crew to shoot a number of scenes for his movie Four Weddings and a Funeral.
In the flick, The Crown is called The Jolly Boatman. The gorgeous reception area, pictured above, is where Carrie, played by Andie MacDowell, hides from the unwanted attention of sleazy George.
Four Weddings and a Funeral.
It was here that I asked the receptionist if I could grab a shot of the suite where Carrie and Hugh Grant’s character Charles hook up for the first time. Much to my delight, a couple had checked out of Room 101 that morning. Thus I was able to go in and take a quick look.
Room 101, The Crown Hotel.
The room has changed almost beyond recognition. Just the basic structure of the space rings true, along with a few of the original wooden beams. Nevertheless, it was another wonderful movie location ticked off my list.
“I always worry I’ll go too far. You know, in the heat of the moment”.
“Well… how far do you think too far would be then?”
Hugh Grant and Andie MacDowell in Old Amersham. July, 1993.
Exterior shots of The Jolly Boatman actually took place further along the road at the magnificent King’s Arms. This 35 bedroom boutique hotel dates back to the 1400s and features a popular restaurant and pub.
The King’s Arms.
Finally, take a look at the striking Market Hall, a grade II listed structure built by the noted politician and lawyer Sir William Drake in 1682. Drake envisioned it as a covered market and meeting hall for the local council and traders’ guilds.
Market Hall.
Market Hall.
On that day in 2019 the hall was hosting an antique market. There were about half a dozen stall owners, with a fascinating array of old furniture, jewellery, paintings, kitchenware and general bric-a-brac.
Old Amersham.
As I explored, there were several enchanting details to pick out. Such as the Drake family arms on the south wall and a grand, stone north wall plaque detailing key historical events and enlightening trivia. For example, I never knew that Oliver Cromwell’s wife Elizabeth lived in the town for a period during the 1650s.
The Amersham Society Plaque at Market Hall.
I’m sure I’ll be back to Old Amersham one day. If only to show Sladja where I grew up and to tie up a few loose ends, such as Amersham Museum and The Martyr’s Memorial. If and when I do make it back, in between more global adventures, I’ll be sure to keep you posted.
For more on my years growing up in Buckinghamshire, have a read of my article on Chesham.
Want to go further afield? I have written tonnes of articles from across England and Scotland.
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63 Comments
Emotional journey through your childhood ! I can still remember “Papa Don’t Preach” as well, cause I was born in that times :)Thanks for sharing
Thanks for reading!
My husband worked for a company based in Amersham in the 90s but I haven’t been back since.
Small world! Were you in the old town or up on the hill? Did you like the town? Thanks for reading!
We didn’t live in Amersham, we lived in the centre of London. And yes, we liked Amersham.
Ah yes, lots of people commute back and forth easy day, which is my idea of hell. Glad you liked the town, it really is a charming place.
Really enjoyed your tour of old Amersham. Yet another place for me to visit sometime.
Thanks for reading and dropping me a line. Hope you get to visit in the not so distant future!
Well penned post! And such beautiful pictures. ☺️
Thank you very much!
So many memories. I loved reading this Leighton. Thank you.
Thanks, it felt good to put this one out there.
Hello Leighton
Like you I went to St Mary’s a few years before you I was actually there in 1940 (I was five at the time) the things I remember from the past are the Brazil’s pie factory, gasworks, B and M motors and Townsend’s garage It was my grandfather and his brother-in-law actually started the Amersham and district bus Company which was eventually taken over by London transport.
Great photographs thank you for the memories
Jim
Wow Jim, that’s really something! I would give anything to spend a day exploring 1940s Old Amersham. Whereabouts did you live? Thanks for reading and taking the time to write something.
Hello leighton
I was born in First Avenue, My claim to fame is I was the first child born in the Avenue which then was just a building site with only five houses completed one of which was bought by my parents.I lived there until I was 21 and then I joined the RAF for five years.
I still go to School Lane mainly because my doctor is part of the group in the Rectory Meadow Surgery.
Thanks for getting in touch, I appreciate your contribution! I think I have only ever walked past First Avenue.
These are the stories that make a place come alive! And so nice to see some of your old haunts turn into places you would like to spend time – like the coffee shop and peace garden. Thanks for sharing!
Cheers, I’ve been pretty blown away by the responses today across various platforms. Just read one of your Japanese pieces actually, great stuff!
Thanks, I was reading this story at the same time!
Hi, what great memories!! I went to St Mary’s too. I remember Lisa Gilbert because I was in the same class as her younger brother Paul. Do you also remember Mr Atkinson and Mrs Auckland? The 61 club was brilliant!! I remember going to Disneyland Paris on a trip they organised.
Hi there! Well… you’ve really pulled some names out of the bag there. I know both those teachers and was particularly fond of Mrs. Auckland. Both names had gotten lost in the haze of the passing years. Thanks for reading and commenting, appreciate your contribution!
A deep sense of nostalgia pervades in both your narrative and the photos. Shooting something like this tests your skill as a photographer – how to capture it all without repeating yourself visually. You did an excellent job. The absence of people in all the early pictures enhances the sense of this being memory. Greatly appreciate this look at your boyhood.
Thanks Memo, the response today has been humbling. Lots of people getting in touch across all the various social media platforms and a record day for clicks.
A walk down memory lane always creates moments of surprise and enchantment. The town does not seem to have changed much, even if the mix of people and activities has profoundly renewed it. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for taking the time to read.
What a beautiful written piece about my home town. I grew up in Amersham on the hill and moved to the old town 14 years ago. I love living in Old Amersham such a beautiful place with an amazing community
Thank you for the kind words. You are lucky to live in such a place.
Love this post! That’s awesome you got to go back and take a trip down memory lane. My family has lived in the same city my whole life, and it’s comforting getting out of NYC for a weekend and visiting. I am always amazed how quiet it seems there!
Thanks Lyssy, I appreciate that. Sounds like you have an American Old Amersham of your own.
It’s incredible that you still have vivid memories of the people and buildings in the town you grew up in! I feel you on the fact that it’s always surreal to return to your childhood home, especially after spending so many years away from it and the new experiences created along the way. Makes one’s childhood spot seem much smaller than one had thought…it’s how I feel about my neighborhood in Los Angeles, after spending so much time abroad! 🙂
Thanks Rebecca, I’m glad this resonated with you. These kinds of visit certainly give us a lot to think about it.
I grew up in Amersham and also went to St Mary’s and 61 club. All of your memories rang true for me too. I really enjoyed reading your article.
Thank you Katherine, appreciate you reading and getting in touch.
Great piece, Leighton. Sue and I were delighted that you managed to pop in to see us on your visit and to reminisce about your time living in School Lane.
Mike
Thanks Mike! I’ll always remember those years hanging out your place.
What a pretty place ! Love those colorful images
Thanks for reading! It really is an idyllic place that comes alive when the English weather behaves itself.
I had no idea Amersham was such a large town, I had always imagined it as a villagey sort of place. Great photos and you make me want to visit it. But when?
Soon Mari! Very much hoping things will start getting back to normal in time for the summer. Thanks for reading!
Such great memories, it was interesting following a bit of your childhood through these photos and account. Even more interesting to see what has changed and what has remained the same. I love the charmingness of the town and many parts of England in general. This was beautiful to read.
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate that. Writing this article was definitely a cathartic process.
This article was brought to my attention by a friend of a friend. We moved to Old Amersham 22 years ago and we wouldn’t live anywhere else. Backing on to Barn Meadow, we live in Mill Meadow. Next time you are in town, knock on the door and I will show you round 😊
Hi Susan, that’s an exceptionally kind offer. Thanks for reading and leaving a comment. If I do make it back to Old Amersham I’ll take you up on that offer.
Very interesting, I learned a lot about this beautiful English town.
Thanks for reading Denise!
Lovely, nostalgic article that once again showcases your talent as a writer. Thank you 😊
Thanks for reading and for your lovely message. It’s been wonderful to blog about this English town, which is mostly unknown to non-UK audiences.
You are welcome. Yes. It’s mostly unknown to many non-UK people. You have done a great service 😊
It’s a great feeling to go back to a place where you had happy memories and nothing really changed in all of those years! Your story reminded me also of something back in my childhood: While in primary school, we also lived just across the school and I remember how my mom brought me warm toasted sandwiches during breaks to the fence of the school (my classmates later paid my mom to make the same sandwiches for them as well 😊 … I think it was quite a business opportunity). My mom saved the money and divided it between me and my brother for Christmas time. Thank you for taking us on a great trip down memory lane – I can see why you enjoyed your childhood in Old Amersham.
What a similar experience you had! Love this story, how wonderful that your mum’s sandwiches proved so popular, and that you got to reap the rewards come Christmas time! Thanks for your contribution to the thread Corna, I’m glad I got to share this chapter of my life with you.
I can see why you have fond memories of Amersham, Leighton. It does look idyllic and I am so glad so many pieces are still in place. Like you, I moved around a lot as a kid (28 times in 17 years). I was always the new kid in school and on the block. I have been back to explore my memories a few times and see how things have changed/stayed the same. I must admit to being happier now that I have stayed put for the past 30+ years. Thanks for sharing and Happy Wednesday. Allan
Thanks Allan, I’m not sure precisely how many times we moved growing up but I’m not sure we could match 28. Although I’ve almost certainly hit my mid to late 20s as a roving adult. Thanks for checking out this English town Allan, I’m pleased to have introduced it to you.
I’ve always been intrigued by Amersham being at the end of the Metropolitan Line. Thank you for introducing me to old Amersham and your old haunts. Hopefully I’ll get out there one day.
Thanks Marion, it is well worth a visit, full of subtle delights. A night in the Four Weddings and a Funeral suite would surely be a fun experience.
It is wonderful that you were able to revisit fond memories of growing up in what I think is a perfect place for a kid to explore. I haven’t been back to my hometown in years but plan to do so this summer for a 50 year (yes 50 years OMG) high school reunion. The house I spent my childhood in no longer exists but I hope to have experiences and memories similar to yours when I get back there. I really appreciate your sharing the sights and feelings from your past in such a lovely town.
Hey John, a 50 year reunion eh? That is mind-boggling, are most of your former classmates still around? Thanks for checking out this instalment of my early years.
There have been a few notable departures like our senior class president but most are living. We’ll see how many show up. The reunion should be good for a couple of posts anyway.
What a delightful tour of this place you called home. My goodness your hometown is lovely! I was one of those kids who lived in the same house my entire life. We moved to our house when I was 3 and my mom still lives there. I was always a little envious of those who had lived in other places but at the same time because I had lived in one place for so long it caused me great anxiety when we moved to Florida. ‘Home’ is becoming a great mingling of different places and different people.
It’s funny, I think people who moved around a lot would be jealous of you. And then vice versa of course, as you say. You are on the money when you say home is a mix of locations and associated folk. Lord only knows I have perhaps a dozen places around the world that I think of as home. Cheers Meg!
Despite living in a couple of places during my university and expat years, I actually have one place I’ve called home for much of my life (and have since moved back into it). It’s the comfort of knowing that everything’s in its rightful place, of knowing exactly where to spatially locate yourself wherever you are inside. It’s the nostalgia at every turn, at each inch of wall and floor you’ve touched/stepped upon…Old Amersham may not have been your home for a large part of your life, the fact that you spent some notable years there is just as significant as compared to if you’d spent your entire life there!
I totally get the idea of a lifelong home being an anchor and think it’s amazing that you’ve had that in your life. There have been many times over the years where I’ve wished I had such a place to return to. A joint that seems unaware of the passing of time and just stays firm, oblivious to whatever may be going on in the outside world. But that wasn’t meant to be for me, all I can do is make these occasional reunions with the many places I’ve called home over the past 40 odd years. Thanks for reading Rebecca.
You lived in such a wonderful little town, Leighton! No matter how far we’ve moved, or how long it’s been, surprising emotions can surface when we’re due for a visit home. Whether we’ve relocated to another country or live just a few hours’ drive away, it’s usually with a blend of anxiety and excitement that we make our way back to that old, familiar place. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva
Thanks for leaving such a lovely comment Aiva. I think you’re right on the money when you talk about a mixture of excitement and anxiety. That’s exactly how I felt. Excited to be reunited with so many good memories, but also anxious about the relentless (and ever faster) passing of time and how we all grow older. Thanks for reading, as always.