"Short stories and travel reports from my life adventures around the globe".

Travel Report: Westminster Abbey, London.

Visit Westminster Abbey London.

Westminster Abbey, London.

May 2019.

You’d be hard pushed to find a more historical place in all of England than the sublime Westminster Abbey. For this is the staggeringly beautiful gothic abbey church where kings and queens have been crowned since 1066. Where royal weddings have unfolded, including the union of Prince Albert The Duke of York (later King George VI) and Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (later The Queen Mother) on the 26th of April 1923.

Marriage Duke of York and Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon 1923.

The Duke of York and Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon.

Moreover, Westminster Abbey stands as the final resting place of no less than seventeen British monarchs. Not to mention some of The UK’s most acclaimed politicians, scientists, artists, writers and actors. Over the years, I must have passed this breathtaking building maybe a dozen times. Finally, on this grey chilly May morning, it was time to head inside.

Westminster Abbey London.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Not booking my ticket in advance turned out to be a major boo boo. The queue that day was hellish, but typical prior to the global pandemic. According to The Abbey’s official blurb back then, around a million people passed through the abbey’s doors every year.

Thus it’s a wise idea to purchase your ticket in advance, which entitles one to join a shorter queue. Unfortunately, muggins was not wise and had to join the back of the horrific general entry line. You live and you learn.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Long queues at Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Crossing my fingers that it wasn’t going to start raining, I sighed at the slowness of the queue’s movement and decided to embark on an online journey through The Abbey’s history. Just a look through the highlights, so to speak. Because to do any kind of justice to it, you’d be better off heading to a bookstore for a chunky hardback.

King Edgar The Peaceful.

King Edgar The Peaceful (959-975).

Westminster Abbey’s origins stretch back to the 960s when King Edgar The Peaceful built St. Peter’s Abbey for a community of Benedictine monks. Later, in 1042, King Edward The Confessor had the abbey rebuilt in order to create a royal burial church. Completed in 1060, it was England’s first Romanesque Church and indeed old Edward ended up here when he died in 1066.

The history of London's Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

The abbey’s first documented coronation was that of William The Conquerer on Christmas Day, 1066. Since then, every single British Monarch bar two has been crowned here. One who didn’t make it to The Abbey was Edward V, who historians believe was most likely murdered in the Tower of London before he could take the throne. The poor little guy was just 12 years old.

King Edward V of England.

Edward V: Never made it to Westminster Abbey.

The abbey we see today traces bak to 1245, when Henry III rebuilt it in the Anglo-French Gothic style. It was at this point of my reading that, at long last, I reached the ticket counter. Roughly one hour after I’d joined the queue.

Adventures in London.

Inside Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London.

I cannot overstate the wow factor upon entering Westminster Abbey. Straight away you see why this is one of Britain’s finest examples of early gothic architecture. Though, as I progressed, I quickly realised that a vast array of styles joined the party over the subsequent centuries.

Map of Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Despite all the maps and my own audio guide, I swiftly got lost in The Abbey’s considerable depths. It was crazy busy, way too many people for my liking. Similarly disappointing, was that you aren’t permitted to take photography inside. Nevertheless, I was very sneaky and managed to grab a host of shots whenever I sensed I was free from the watchful eyes of the security wardens.

Tomb of the Unknown Warrior Westminster Abbey London

Westminster Abbey, London.

One of the first things I saw was the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, located at the western end of The Nave. The soldier interred here fell sometime between 1914-1916 during World War I. The coffin, complete with large chunks of French soil, was brought over to London in 1920 for a burial ceremony at The Abbey.

Donald Trump and Melania at the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior Westminster Abbey London.

Westminster Abbey, London.

And here he’s remained ever since, the ultimate symbol of the sacrifices made for freedom, king and country. Just a few weeks after my visit, I turned on the TV one day to see images of President Donald Trump and The First Lady at Westminster Abbey. And they were standing right on the spot where I’d taken my shot of the tomb.

Adventures in London.

Tribute to James Ramsey MacDonald Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

Just across from The Unknown Warrior, I scanned my eyes over a string of memorial stones set into the floor. One is a tribute to James Ramsay MacDonald, Britain’s first Labour Prime Minister, whose funeral took place here in November 1937.

Like many of The UK’s most noted politicians, MacDonald was eligible for burial within Westminster Abbey. However, on this occasion his family declined and laid him to rest alongside his wife in Lossiemouth, Scotland.

Light a candle at Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

I’ve never really been one for lighting candles in churches. But that day, swept up by the beauty of my surroundings and the magnitude of its history, I felt moved to fill out a prayer card and light a candle for a very special person.

In memory of Dorothy Dolly Thomas Fitzneal Street London

Dorothy Thomas, aka Nanny Tommy.

Dorothy ‘Dolly’ Thomas was my paternal grandmother. A kind woman who loved listening to the radio while doing chores around the house. Who worked as a tea trolley lady at The Gillette Factory on Great West Road. A lady who knocked out an excellent shepherd’s pie and salmon and cucumber sandwiches. With the crusts cut off, naturally. When I was growing up, she made a tradition of buying me a new pair of shoes for each school year.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Prayer request Westminster Abbey London

Westminster Abbey, London.

Nanny Tommy passed away quite unexpectedly in Charing Cross Hospital back in 1998 aged 84 years old. Hence it was a special, albeit bittersweet moment when I dispatched a silent prayer in her memory and added my candle to the rows of flickering lights. Sleep well, nan.

Tomb of Henry V Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

I came face to face with some breathtaking tombs that afternoon. The vault pictured above belongs to King Henry V, whose short reign was famed for his many military victories. Especially in The Hundred Years’ War in France, which helped establish Britain as one of the world’s most fearsome military forces.

King Henry V of England.

King Henry V (1386-1422).

Henry was also a major financial contributor to Westminster Abbey. In the end though, all that French fighting became his undoing and he died outside Paris on August the 31st 1422. The exact cause of death seems a little vague. But Henry certainly suffered from both dysentery and heatstroke during The Siege of Cons-sur-Loire. His burial at Westminster Abbey took place on the 7th of November.

Westminster Abbey coat of arms.

One of the juicer tombs on display is that of Mary Queen of Scots. What a scandalous tale her life story is! She was a woman who acceded to the Scottish throne aged just six days old. Who married Francis II of France aged sixteen, but returned to Scotland just two years later when her husband died of suspected poisoning.

A Right Royal Scandal.

omb of Mary Queen of Scots Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

She remarried in 1566 to her half-cousin, Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. This marriage didn’t last long either, because just a few years later he was found murdered in the family garden.

The man suspected of orchestrating his death, James Hepburn the 4th Earl of Bothwell, then married Mary the month after Darnley’s death! Make of that what you will folks, but Mary’s family and the government of the day were not happy. As a result, she had to abdicate and flee south, where she asked Queen Elizabeth I for protection.

Mary Queen of Scots.

Mary Queen of Scots: A character.

Unfortunately, Elizabeth did not turn out to be an ally for Mary. Apparently, Mary had once made claims on the English throne and Elizabeth had not forgotten. And so it came to pass that Mary spent the next eighteen years in a series of British castle prisons.

And then, in 1586, the crown found her guilty of plotting to assassinate Elizabeth and she was beheaded at Fotheringhay Castle. Originally buried at Peterborough Cathedral, it was her son King James VI & I who ordered Mary’s remains to be transferred to Westminster Abbey in 1612.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Lady Chapel Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London.

Architecturally, there are endless wow moments as you make your way through Westminster Abbey. But for me the highlight is definitely The Chapel of Henry VII, also known as Lady Chapel.

With its frankly ludicrous fan vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows and bronze effigies, the 16th century historian John Leland once described this place as “the wonder of the world”. Dating back to 1516, the chapel continues to make royal history today when The Queen and The Prince of Wales install new knights here. The tradition takes place every four years, I’m still waiting for their call.

Royal Air Force Chapel Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

One of The Abbey’s quirkiest sights is the tiny but beautiful RAF (Royal Air Force) Chapel, located at Lady Chapel’s eastern end. It stands in honour of those brave souls in The Royal Air Force who fell during The Battle of Britain in 1940. It was during this time that The Abbey itself sustained bomb damage, with several blown in windows. A small hole in the wall from that time has been cleverly preserved with a glass cover on the outside.

Poet’s Corner.

Poet's Corner Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London.

My favourite part of Westminster Abbey lies in the south transept. Here, one can meet the giants of British literature at Poet’s Corner. The first wordsmith to be buried here was Geoffrey Chaucer, the so-called “greatest poet of The Middle Ages“. In truth I had to suffer his work as a reluctant teenager while taking my A-Levels. But hey, that was a long time ago, maybe I should give him another chance.

Geoffrey Chaucer English poet.

Geoffrey Chaucer (1340s to 1400).

And yet, as celebrated as Chaucer was for works like The Canterbury Tales, the main reason he got a spot in Westminster Abbey was due to his clerical work at The Palace of Westminster. His incredible tomb, made by Nicholas Brigham in 1555, is truly a sight to behold.

Geoffrey Chaucer's Tomb Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

Elsewhere, there are the tombs of two great Victorian poets, Robert Browning and Alfred, Lord Tennyson. And a memorial stone to Mary Ann Evans, who wrote seven highly acclaimed novels, including Middlemarch, under her male pen name George Eliot.

Evans didn’t actually qualify for a Westminster Abbey burial because of her denial of the Christian faith. The powers that be also frowned upon her well publicised adulterous affair with the philosopher George Henry Lewes.

Robert Browning's Tomb Westminster Abbey London

A personal favourite for me was the memorial stone for C.S. Lewis, author of the brilliant fantasy novel series The Chronicles of Narnia. Indeed I was a huge fan of these growing up, particularly The Lion Witch and The Wardrobe, which I read and binge watched in its 1979 TV movie form.

Westminster Abbey, London.

C.S. Lewis Westminster Abbey London

Westminster Abbey, London.

Lewis was 64 years old when he passed away on the 22nd of November 1963. Sadly news of his death got swallowed up in the chaos of John F. Kennedy’s assassination, which took place on the same day. The Lewis family happily accepted the offer of a stone at Westminster Abbey, though the great writer ultimately rested in the graveyard at The Holy Trinity Church in Headington, Oxford.

The cloisters Westminster Abbey London

Westminster Abbey, London.

It was several hours after I entered The Abbey that I wound my way into The Cloisters. This is where the monks of The Middle Ages spent their time reading, writing and discussing important religious matters of the day. Dozens of monks, they say, lie buried under these floors, which are now awash with memorial stones.

Edmond Halley Memorial Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

One cloister memorial that caught my eye was for Edmund Halley, Britain’s second royal astronomer. A highly respected mathematician and meteorologist, Edmond’s life achievements are numerous, including a notable cataloguing of the transit of Mercury across the sun.

Edmond Halley Royal astronomer

Edmond Halley (1656-1742).

But for the average Brit he is most associated with Halley’s Comet, which he discovered was the only short period comet that appears visible to the naked eye. It comes into view every 75 years and is next due in 2062. Which means (presuming I’m still alive) I’ll be 84 when it next graces us with its presence.

Adventures in London.

Little Cloister Garden Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey, London.

My cloister wanderings concluded with a look through the windows at one of the gardens, with its lone, stone fountain. Centuries ago, this would’ve been packed with ponds, beehives, an orchard and several allotments for growing vegetables and herbs. Those monks had it alright.


My legs were at this point crying out for some rest. What’s more, the smell of coffee was gently drifting through the cloisters from Westminster Abbey’s onsite cafe and restaurant, Cellarium.

Cellarium Cafe Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey, London.

So I followed the smell down a staircase into a chic, atmospheric cellar packed with dense wooden tables and sweeping ceiling arches. Ten out of ten for the environment, no doubt. But honestly I felt disappointed by my average coffee and the dry, expensive slab of lemon drizzle cake. Really, heads would have rolled in Henry the VIII’s day.


Westminster Abbey is a must see for anyone visiting London. I can’t stress enough the advantages of booking ahead to avoid potential queues. And to be sure that the old joint isn’t operating under a partial closure, which happens from time to time. For opening times and ticket prices, take a look at their excellent website.

Leighton Travels travel reports short stories.

For more on my home city, why not delve through my many travel reports from across London.

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  • Sheree

    It’s such an amazing place.

    November 8, 2021 - 9:00 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Spot on Sheree, trying to provide an overview of it is such a gargantuan task. You just have to pick your spots.

      November 8, 2021 - 9:02 am Reply
      • Sheree

        Very true

        November 8, 2021 - 1:33 pm
  • pedmar10

    Great post and a nice touch, cheers!

    November 8, 2021 - 9:10 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Cheers sir! A special place and a special woman (my Nan).

      November 8, 2021 - 9:16 am Reply
  • Little Miss Traveller

    An excellent review of such a historic place Leighton. How wonderful that you filled out a prayer request card for your grandmother, she sounded to be a kind, hardworking woman and I loved the fact that she insisted on buying you a new pair of school shoes to start each academic year. I nearly always learn something new from your posts as I was unaware of the cafe, but it doesn’t sound as if I have missed much unless improvements have been made! Hope your week goes well. Marion

    November 8, 2021 - 9:45 am Reply
    • Leighton

      That’s a very kind comment Marion, thank you. It was nice to honour my Nan in a blog and finally I found the right fit.

      November 8, 2021 - 9:52 am Reply
  • ourcrossings

    What a fantastic post about one of the most famous religious buildings in the world, Leighton! The Abbey is a must-see living pageant of British history and is a great choice for travellers interested in exploring the highlights of London’s Westminster area. Thanks for sharing, and have a nice day 🙂 Aiva

    November 8, 2021 - 10:13 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks for your kind words Aiva. It is indeed a truly special place packed with so much history at times you hardly know where to look.

      November 8, 2021 - 10:27 am Reply
  • wetanddustyroads

    What a grand-grand building (from the outside as well as the inside) … you little bugger who took photo’s … but great, I’ve enjoyed them 😉. How sweet of you to think about your grandmother … such a special touch. Halley’s Comet – hmm, I remember seeing that back in 1986 somewhere in the mountains on a high school excursion … 2062 sounds like a very long time to see it again though.
    A very interesting post with so much history. Thanks Leighton, I’ve enjoyed this very much!

    November 8, 2021 - 12:19 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      I am perhaps more than just a little bugger for the amount of photos I took that day ha ha. Thanks for reading and sharing your thoughts!

      November 8, 2021 - 12:21 pm Reply
  • ThingsHelenLoves

    What an amazing place…the building itself and all the stories contained within it. The thought of you grabbing the photos when not being watched made me smile. Some rules are made to be broken? If you still have a love for C.S Lewis and Narnia, give his grave a visit in Oxford if you haven’t already. The church there has the most beautiful Narnia inspired window.

    There’s also a house with a massive shark in the roof just down the road from there, but that’s another story.

    November 8, 2021 - 1:48 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Hey Helen, thanks for reading and leaving such a lovely comment. I appreciate the Oxford tip too. Next year, touch wood, Sladja and I will spend 6 months living around The UK. We were actually talking about visiting Oxford while we’re in and around London. If we do, I’ll be sure to seek out that church. I’m Googling the shark right after I hit ‘send’…

      November 8, 2021 - 1:56 pm Reply
  • Lyssy In The City

    Excellent tour, I definitely need to see this!! Crazy to think how much history happened in there and how you can just pay to see it.

    November 8, 2021 - 2:37 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Absolutely Lyssy. Entry is a little pricy but worth every penny as one of the world’s most unique historical attractions.

      November 8, 2021 - 2:40 pm Reply
      • Lyssy In The City

        It’ll be at the top of my list when Jon and I make it across the pond 🙂

        November 8, 2021 - 2:42 pm
  • kagould17

    Excellent review Leighton which does this marvellous historical building proud. We have only been inside twice since we visited the first time in 1977. It was and is still impressive, but the cost is high. Hopefully, most of the admissions make it through to the Abbey upkeep budget. This place must be protected for all. Sad story about the mediocre food and coffee, but alas, this is often the case in popular venues. Cheers and thanks for sharing. Allan

    November 8, 2021 - 2:42 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Westminster Abbey in 1977! That must have been quite something. Thanks for reading and contributing Allan.

      November 8, 2021 - 3:06 pm Reply
      • kagould17

        I can recall the taste of diesel fumes from all the downtown traffic, which flowed??? unrestricted at the time. The city was under a perpetual haze. Still a good place to start a honeymoon for a couple of newlywed neophyte travellers. 😀

        November 8, 2021 - 3:14 pm
      • Leighton

        Fascinating stuff Allan, I was born in Hammersmith Hospital the following summer.

        November 8, 2021 - 3:21 pm
  • Monkey's Tale

    Great tour of Westminster Abbey Leighton. It has such incredible architecture and so much history. You probably don’t know, but I love reading Philippa Gregory’s historical fiction books about the many queens and princesses of UK’s past. Your post reminded me of some of those books and I try to imagine those people walking the same halls. Great post. Maggie

    November 8, 2021 - 3:52 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks Maggie, I’m not familiar with Philippa Gregory’s work so will definitely look into that later when I’m home. Appreciate your contribution to the thread!

      November 8, 2021 - 3:56 pm Reply
  • grandmisadventures

    Great post Leighton! **she says as she adds a large number of books about the history of the building and the people mentioned to the list of books to read**. So hard to fathom the depth of history there, especially as you’re blinded by the stunning beauty of it all. C.S. Lewis is one of my all time favorite authors. I probably read the Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe dozens of times growing up. And what a lovely tribute to your grandmother.

    November 8, 2021 - 5:18 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      You’re right, the beauty of the place only adds to the dizziness as you try to process where exactly you are in the cathedral and which objects and corners the audio guide is referring to. Thanks for diving into this article and for your enthusiastic comment.

      November 8, 2021 - 5:53 pm Reply
  • Memo

    Wow! What an impressive combination of history and architecture. I would need to cash in my retirement in order to return as many times as I would need to drink in all that it offers. Hard to believe it began as a romanesque church. I couldn’t tell from the map where the original part had been so had to go on line for a better mental image. Truly wish I could track the growth with an in person visit. And connected to so many notable people. I’d need a summer of reading in preparation. So glad you were able to build in Nanny Tommy. Those personal touches make your posts all the more dear.

    November 8, 2021 - 5:19 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      A summer of reading sounds about right, Memo. Thanks for your kind words, the making of this article was more arduous than most.

      November 8, 2021 - 5:56 pm Reply

    You’re right, it’s a fabulous place to visit. A couple of updates for you – currently, no doubt pandemic related, there’s no such thing as queues, we just bowled up, paid and walked in. Not sure how long that will last! And photography is only limited to certain areas, you’re free to click away in the main abbey.

    November 8, 2021 - 5:50 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Ah how things change in just a few years. Thanks for the updates! How fortunate you were to get to wander around Westminster Abbey in relative peace.

      November 8, 2021 - 5:57 pm Reply
  • salsaworldtraveler

    Great tour of this impressive and uniquely historical structure. The monarchs and church powers knew how to ensure people knew who was boss. I’d feel a little overwhelmed but must see it in person one day.

    November 8, 2021 - 7:43 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks for taking my online tour John. It is overwhelming and indeed one could write a similarly lengthy article with a completely different line up of tombs, memorials, chapels and statues.

      November 8, 2021 - 7:49 pm Reply
  • Rebecca

    I’ve actually never visited the interior of the Westminster Abbey, although of course, I’ve passed by it. Such a shame, because despite the shockingly-long lines to get in, it’s really like stepping into time once you pass those historic doors!

    November 9, 2021 - 4:56 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Well, from what the Hungry Travellers tell me, the queues are pretty much gone. Though I guess they will start rebuilding over the next year or so. Thanks for visiting!

      November 9, 2021 - 10:08 am Reply
  • WanderingCanadians

    That’s too bad that you didn’t book your ticket in advance and had to wait in line. Thankfully I’m sure it was worth the wait given how impressive Westminster Abbey is. We visited back in January 2013 and even then there was a line wrapped around the building.

    November 9, 2021 - 1:48 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      I guess, pre-pandemic, those lines were a constant. One very small advantage of the pandemic I suppose for tourists in London. Thanks for dropping by!

      November 9, 2021 - 2:11 pm Reply
  • travelling_han

    Your candle for Nanny Tommy made me well up a bit – my Granny passed away a year ago this weekend and it made think how special grandparents can be in our lives. What a lovely way to remember her in such an incredible place.

    Also shout out to the Queen Mum who I’m sure looked the same at 100 as she did on the day she got married!!!!

    November 9, 2021 - 4:24 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Aw, absolutely Han, couldn’t agree more. I now only have one of my grandparents left and at 83 she hasn’t had the best year, like so many. Right on about The Queen Mum, ha ha!

      November 9, 2021 - 4:26 pm Reply
  • Jyothi

    What a great tour, Leighton! Enjoyed it!

    November 9, 2021 - 5:23 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks for dropping by Jyothi!

      November 9, 2021 - 5:32 pm Reply
  • Nic

    I have only admired it from the outside, but should definitely take advantage of the fact that crowds are not yet such a biggie to finally visit this gothic pearl!

    November 9, 2021 - 11:09 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Definitely Nic, there has never been a better time to visit Westminster Abbey!

      November 9, 2021 - 11:12 pm Reply
  • thetravelvine

    Brilliant article Leighton! Your pictures of that monstrous queue is the main reason I keep making excuses not to head inside. I’ve learnt my lesson now though, as I will brave the crowds next time. Yes, waiting an hour to get inside is rubbish. I normally purchase a London Pass when I’m there, as you can skip the queues, so I think I’ll do that next time. Thanks for sneaking in some pictures. I did read online that there was no photography inside, which I hate. But at least you were able to give us a glimpse.

    November 10, 2021 - 9:47 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks for reading! I hear the queues are non-existent these days. Indeed some fellow blogger friends waltzed right in last week with not a single body in front of them. They also said the no photography rule has been relaxed.

      November 10, 2021 - 9:51 am Reply
      • thetravelvine

        Well that’s good to hear. Sadly, by the time I get to go, it will be back to being busy again. So in a way, that’s a good thing right? Lol

        November 12, 2021 - 12:11 pm
      • Leighton

        In a way yeah, ha ha.

        November 12, 2021 - 12:27 pm
  • jasonlikestotravel

    Like yourself, I’ve passed it many times and admired it but never quite made it inside. I’m glad you enjoyed your visit so much though.

    November 10, 2021 - 5:04 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Cheers Jason! Next time you pass it, you’ll probably be able to duck inside and see the place with just a fraction of the usual foot traffic.

      November 10, 2021 - 9:22 pm Reply
  • Lookoom

    I remember a school trip to Westminster, of course I didn’t retain any of the history, thanks for the reminder.

    November 11, 2021 - 4:10 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Ha! I believe I failed to retain any history of any school trip I ever went on. Thanks for reading!

      November 11, 2021 - 8:34 am Reply
  • 100 Country Trek

    It was a very historic and amazing site to see. Thanks for taking me back through our visit there. However I am happy I didn’t go down into the cellar with its musty smell. Have a great weekend Anita

    November 13, 2021 - 12:10 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks for reading Anita!

      November 13, 2021 - 12:11 pm Reply
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