Travel Report: Cool Spots Around Lancaster, England.

Cool Spots Around Lancaster.

May 2019.

Following my individual articles on Lancaster Castle, Lancaster Priory and Williamson Park, it’s time to roundup the best of the rest. So why not treat yourself to a brew, sit back and enjoy my Cool Spots Around Lancaster.

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I’d really enjoyed learning all about the life of Lord Ashton, Lancaster’s millionaire entrepreneur. Despite having his name muddied by accusations of political corruption, in Lancaster he remained a much loved man. After all, he created the city’s gorgeous Williamson Park. He was also responsible for the the park’s stunning Ashton Memorial, in tribute to his deceased wife.

Moreover, he was a man who paid his linoleum workforce a decent wage and once treated over 10.000 people to a hot, hearty breakfast. Keen to see another of Ashton’s donations, I headed for Dalton Square to look at the Queen Victoria Memorial.

Dalton Square dates back to 1784, but by 1906 was in a state of decay. This is when Lord Ashton stepped in to pay for a complete renovation. At the same time, he hired the famed English sculptor Herbert Hampton to create a large memorial to Queen Victoria.

Hampton used Portland stone for the plinth and pedestal. The bronze Victoria meanwhile faces south, keeping watch over the square. Below her sit four elegant lion guardians. Lower still, spread across four bronze friezes, are an incredible 53 sculpted figures.

Cool Spots Around Lancaster.

Look closely and you’ll realise Ashton paid tribute to some of the most iconic people of the Victorian era. In fact, the relief features images of the poet Alfred Tennyson and two time Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli. One can also pick out the war hero and social reformer Florence Nightingale and the naturalist Charles Darwin. Good old Charles Dickens is in there somewhere too.

Lancaster is actually packed with handsome squares. Take, for example, the little cobbled square on Church Street, home to the city’s oldest townhouse. Built in 1625, it was once the home of a man called Thomas Covell, the city mayor and keeper of the castle.

Later, it stood as a boarding house for judges who came to Lancaster to rule at the castle court. Today the building is home to The Judges’ Lodgings Museum. Here, visitors can tour the house, which has a Victorian Childhood Museum and an exhibition of 18th and 19th century Gillow Furniture.

Lancaster’s grandest square is almost certainly Market Square, a bustling trading spot that stretches as far back as 1193! In 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Jacobite army rolled into town, where they settled in Market Square.

It was here that Charlie, known as The Young Pretender, declared himself Prince Regent of England and his father “the true king of England”. Unfortunately, things didn’t pan out well for Charlie and his dad in the months that followed. Ah well, they’ll always have Lancaster.

Market Square.

The striking building that dominates Market Square today used to be Lancaster Town Hall. Built in the early 1780s, this delightful Georgian structure now houses the Lancaster City Museum.

Founded in 1923, this small but lovingly crafted museum brings Lancaster’s long and colourful history to life. Indeed it features a fascinating collection of Roman relics in addition to a grisly exhibition on crime and punishment in The Victorian era.

Elsewhere, there are amusing displays on the history of Lancaster’s police force, fire brigade and hospital care. All boards have archive photographs, diary entries, donated antique items and original paintings that bring the stories alive.

One piece of artwork that really caught my eye was a lively watercolour showing the arrival of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1851. The mood is positively celebratory, with locals clapping the royals as they pass through the city on the way to the castle.

Check out the saluting police officers in their black top hats and swallow-tail uniform jackets. Sadly the artist’s name has been lost to time, though the accompanying info states a man from Derby, W Dunn Esq., was kind enough to donate the painting to the museum.

Cool Spots Around Lancaster.

Furthermore, one could easily wile away an hour on the museum’s First and Second World War exhibits. Both focus on the stories of Lancaster’s role in the war effort, telling the tales of those brave souls who lost their lives defending Britain.

As I leaf through my photos from that day, I find my eyes drawn to the somewhat playful Wheel of Misfortune. Fun to have a spin and see where you end up, but also a sad reminder of what a lottery one’s fate can be in a time of war. Especially when, while I type, Russian air missiles are currently pouring down over the Ukrainian city of Kiev.

Back outside, just a few minutes on foot from the museum, it’s well worth cutting through Market Street to King Street via Bashful Alley. This short and narrow alley has a history dating back to the 1700s when sailors would visit the alley in order to meet ladies of the night.

However, several local historians claim the alley got its name in the 1800s. As the story goes, respectable Lancaster ladies used to cut into the alley when passing through town. They did so to avoid the unwanted attentions of rowdy drunkards and n’er do wells who hung out nearby at The Market Street corner.

Bashful Alley.

A visit to Lancaster would be scandalously incomplete without a look at one of England’s most historic theatres. Step forward The Grand, the city’ first live performance venue purpose built in 1782.

Started by an actor called Joseph and a dentist, Edward, it opened to great fanfare across the north of England. Indeed in its first summer of operation The Theatre (as it was known then) staged William Shakespeare’s Hamlet and Hannah Cowley’s The Belle’s Stratagem.

Over the centuries the theatre has attracted some major names, including the Italian violinist sensation Niccolo Paganini. Later, in 1843, the renowned architect Edmund Sharpe bought and renovated the place.

During his stewardship, the venue focused on live music performances and hosted a small Natural History Museum. At the time of writing, The Grand is launching a fundraising campaign for a brand new modern foyer.

Another loved Lancaster theatre is The Dukes, which opened its doors in 1971. This is Lancashire’s only producing theatre. It also has cinema screens and puts on dance shows and live comedy nights.

Cool Spots Around Lancaster.

Archaeology buffs will be delighted to learn that there are several Roman ruins peppered around Lancaster. I checked out the remains of a small Bath House. You’ll find it tucked away behind Lancaster Priory, literally a few minutes away on foot.

Experts reckon up to four Roman forts stood here during their occupation of Britain. For more info on the ruin, this detailed article by lancashirepast.com is worth a read.

Naturally, there are some wonderfully atmospheric pubs that do a great job of channeling traditional England. If you’ve only got time for one, make it The Golden Lion on Moor Lane. Those who read my recent piece on Lancaster Castle may recall the infamous Pendle Witches trial in 1612.

Apparently, this is where the doomed “witches” stopped to have one last drink on their way to the gallows. A sign outside honours their memory: Anne Whittle, Anne Redfearn, Elizabeth, Alizon and James Device, Jane and John Bulcock, Katherine Hewitt, Alice Nutter and Isobel Roby.

Happily my drink with Uncle D at The Golden Lion proved a far more relaxing affair. Today customers can enjoy real ales and a wide variety of gins while watching sport on the big screen or enjoying live music nights. In fact, I was lucky enough to catch a group of local seniors performing some folk music in the back room.

The Golden Lion Pub.

Another historic Lancaster Pub I popped my head into was Merchants 1688. This historic bar restaurant serves up fine dining championing local ingredients. I’m talking Lancashire Hot Pot, Morecambe Bay Potted Shrimps and Cumbrian Beef.

The site began life as a 17th century wine cellar and today you can enjoy your dinner in its old underground stone tunnels with vaulted ceilings. I went in just for a quick drink between sights, but would definitely do dinner here if I ever make it back. They often have live music and I recall the band scheduled for that evening was the brilliantly named Luca Brasi 4.

Another impressive dining location is The Sultan of Lancaster, set in the shell of an old methodist church. As regular readers know, I can’t get enough Indian food. This place offers a full range of authentic curries to the backdrop of original church features, such as ornate pillars and a carved ceiling.

If the aforementioned options seem a tad fancy, fear not, Lancaster also has you covered for cheap, quick, no-nonsense chow. Look no further than Starvin Marvin and its tempting (?) array of kebabs, burgers and the like. Although, to be frank, a glance at their TripAdvisor reviews doesn’t fill one with much confidence.

Cool Spots Around Lancaster.

Finally, I’ll leave you with an amusing Lancaster spot. Lovers of antiques can head to GB Antiques Centre, England’s biggest antique and furniture complex. What’s more, you’ll find yourself tickled by the large, fibre-glass bull stationed above the main entrance.

The statue stands in memory of a real life bull who escaped a nearby auction mart, before entering the antiques house through a loading bay. It then proceeded to rampage through the centre’s porcelain section, quite literally bringing to life the phrase, bull in a China shop. Sadly, the beast was so out of control police marksmen had to shoot it.

R.I.P.

Like this? Why not leaf through my other articles on Lancaster.

Or maybe take a look at my many travel articles from all around England.

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