In many ways it feels like I’ve been on the road my whole life. Adapting to new environments, grappling with unfamiliar cultures, enjoying amazing foods, gazing upon stunning sights and struggling with yet another baffling language! Always meeting new people along the way, some of them now lifelong friends, others sadly no longer around. I was born in Hammersmith, London, but grew up in Old Amersham, a pretty market town in Buckinghamshire. I enjoyed an idyllic upbringing really. We lived next door to my primary school directly opposite a large park with tennis courts, a football field, a youth club, woods and a stream. Summers were always long, sunny and carefree, my friends and I running around building camps in the woods and playing bike spreaders across Old Amersham’s Barn Meadow.
My first big trip abroad was on a family holiday to Orlando, Florida. Disney World… Universal Studios… Water mania and Clearwater Beach. Lazy, lingering breakfasts at Denny’s and Perkins. I loved the sense of adventure that came from being far from home and all the associated sights, sounds and smells. We ended up doing the Florida thing three times, also taking in Tampa Bay and South Carolina’s Hilton Head Island. A gentle starting point for my future explorations of The U.S.
I left home aged twelve for four years of boarding school in Anglesey, Wales. I basically lived in that unpronounceable town that has the longest train station sign in the world. I was surrounded by kids from all over, some of whom had lived in exotic locations like Singapore and South Africa. Somehow I instinctively knew that, with a bit of patience, my own time would come.
In my late teens the family unit relocated to Scotland for my dad’s new job. This eventually took me all over the country, with spells in Edinburgh, Haddington, Aberlady, Port Seton, Fort William and out in the sticks of The Scottish Borders. There were plenty of other places I got to see too, most memorably during a road trip through The Scottish Highlands that culminated in a hike across Orkney. Just me, a friend and a couple of backpacks.
I was 23 when I left the UK for good. Again it was my father’s work that provided the opportunity and I took it with both hands. Luckily Qatar turned out to be an incredible experience. Based in the capital Doha, I became qualified as an English language instructor and landed my first teaching job. Doha also served as the gateway for a weekend trip to Dubai. When my contract in Qatar finished I spent a summer working my way around Denmark. Having checked in with a friend who lived outside Kalundborg, my wanderings took me to Esbjerg, Copenhagen, Roskilde, Odense and Funen Island. Somewhere along the way I felt something click inside me and I realised that for better or for worse this was the life for me.
As a qualified TEFL instructor with a year’s experience under my belt, I found myself in the enviable position of being able to handpick my next destination. I wanted something wacky like Qatar, a place I knew little about, a location that most people wouldn’t even think of. In the end Slovakia fit the bill perfectly. Bratislava itself turned out to be a cold, grey place, but its visual grimness was compensated by bags of charm. Ultimately it was the people I met and the travelling we did that year that made it such a memorable period of my life. I saw Slovakia itself virtually inside out, while there were also forays around The Czech Republic, Austria and Poland.
At the end of my contract I embarked on an extensive jaunt around Hungary with a few friends. Together we took in Budapest, Esztergom, Gyor, Veszprém, Lake Balaton and Eger. It seems just like yesterday and yet somehow fifteen years have passed since that wonderful trip.
Having had my fill of Europe for a while I decided to go travelling around India, a life-altering couple of months that took in Delhi, Agra and a lengthy tour of Rajasthan before dotting down the southwest coast. I had so many crazy experiences on that trip, from awful hotels, wonderful food, a bad-tempered ear cleaner, a desert safari atop an unpredictable camel, a James Bond themed city and an intimate elephant sanctuary. It was my first bout of extended solo travel (even though technically I wasn’t alone) and in my mind I have to go back one day as an old man and travel the other side of the country.
In the summer of 2004 I fell head over heels for a charismatic Belgian girl. I was so smitten I turned down the chance to teach in Italy to go and live with her in Belgium. Stationed in the gorgeous university town of Leuven, our car-crash relationship lasted just a few months and I found myself alone and stranded. ‘‘Come home!’’ cried my despairing mum, but I loved Leuven so much I ended up sticking around for three years. With its quaint squares, sleepy parks and old-worlde bars, life was very chilled indeed. And it got even better when my new girlfriend S left The Netherlands to join me! Together we made tracks across Belgium, enjoying sojourns to Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, Namur, Liege, Mechelen, Diest, Aarschot and The Ardennes. There were also amazing weekend visits to the French cities of Paris and Lille.
In May 2007 we headed off on what became one of the great holidays of my life. It began with a fantastic week in New York, where I proposed to S on top of The Empire State Building after a romantic dinner at Frankie & Johnnies. From there we went on to Washington DC, Nashville and Memphis. How could I ever forget limousine-cruising through Manhattan, snipers on The White House, the spirit of Johnny Cash at Nashville’s Studio B or the Elvis crazies at Graceland?
Back in Belgium, professional pressures forced S and I into leaving Leuven for the big smoke of Brussels, a city we never truly cared for. Over the next few years we were mostly preoccupied with plans for our wedding. Nevertheless, we did find time for short breaks in Luxembourg City and Venice, while my stag weekend played out just across the German border in the city of Cologne.
Our big day took place in September 2008 in the Belgian town of Rixensart, a picturesque little place built around a wide lake. For our honeymoon it was off to Morocco, hitting Casablanca, Marrakech, the coastal town of Essaouria and some hiking in The Atlas Mountains.
S and I eventually became completely disillusioned with life in Belgium. The economic crisis had hit her job hard and, after much deliberation, we boldly decided to pack up and leave, to enjoy one last big adventure before settling down. And so unfolded a memorable year in China! Ten months teaching in Beijing, bookended by extensive stretches out on the open road. The living and working part was extremely challenging, with cultural and linguistic barriers like I’d never experienced before. Add to that the pollution and unmanageable crowds and Beijing was admittedly a tough gig. The travelling though was magnificent, with vibrant uber-modern cities, ancient stone-walled villages, sacred mist-shrouded mountains, golden beaches, lush green rice fields and a certain great wall.
When we arrived in The Netherlands in the summer of 2010 both S and I were jobless, had nowhere to live and only modest, dwindling savings. To begin with we stayed with her parents in the southern town of Goirle, just outside the city of Tilburg. Luckily, within a few months we’d both landed jobs in Amsterdam, which we quickly made our home. Having scooped what was pretty much a dream job writing and voice presenting movie news, with the added bonus of getting to interview Hollywood stars every now and then, I thought I’d be in The Netherlands for the rest of my life. But after eight years together S and I decided to separate, a situation that left me utterly heartbroken. In the aftermath of the split I realised that staying in Amsterdam wasn’t an option. What the hell was I gonna do? Somewhat fortuitously the answer came in the form of an attractive job offer.
When I returned to Beijing at the end of 2013 I was under no illusions as to what lay in store. I didn’t go for the pollution, the teeming multitudes or the infernal spitting. I was doing it for a new professional challenge and to put together some sizable savings. At the same time I was excited about rediscovering the amazing food and of course seeing more of China. While the job definitely had its frustrations, things turned out well enough and happily I was able to both travel and save, with a summer trip around China’s Northeast and a two week visit to South Korea to boot. But then, in April 2015, after sixteen months in Beijing, I felt it was time to move on again.
Treating myself to an extended break, I embarked on a two month trip around Thailand with a couple of weeks across Singapore and Malaysia sandwiched between my visas. It was a brilliant period for me, one that marked my longest time out on the open road and during which I developed Leighton Literature, built up my short stories, put my past woes into perspective and made exciting plans for the future.
And yet what followed for me was probably the most topsy-turvy period of my life. After a month teaching summer school English in Castro Urdialez, a small coastal town outside Bilbao in Northern Spain, I set off on a two week trip taking in the sights of San Sebastián, Pamplona, Zaragoza and Barcelona. Then it was off to London for a bit to hang out with an old friend and weigh up my next move. After much deliberation I jetted off to Cambodia, stationing myself in the colourful city of Siem Reap. But the teaching job there was dreadful and while I loved my students it took just a couple of months for me to realise that I had no desire to hang around. And so I was on the move again, this time picking off Cambodia’s wonders one by one with stays in Battambang, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville, Koh Rhong, Kampot and Kep. It was also here that I met Wonderboy, fellow Englishman, travel enthusiast and all round partner in crime.
Reuniting with my family for Christmas 2015, it hit me hard that I was in desperate need of some stability. And so, after a three-month stint in the north of Scotland getting reacquainted with my sister and niece Alice, I headed off to southern Spain for yet another teaching job. In many ways Malaga looked like the perfect place to live! The weather was great, I had daily access to the beach, the cost of living made me smile and there was a whole new world of untapped travel opportunities to sink my teeth into. I told myself that maybe this was it, that after so many years of bouncing around I’d found somewhere to truly call my own.
I could have made it work if I’d really wanted to. But after a year I began suspecting that this restless soul of mine can never be tamed. I felt dissatisfied at earning 800 Euros a month and longed for more adventure. Having explored a huge chunk of southern Spain I was in desperate need of financial replenishment and felt the seductive whispers of China calling me back once again. That love-hate relationship that just wouldn’t go away. And so, in recognition of my hopelessly nomadic lifestyle, I finally took the plunge and simplified my existence as much as I could in preparation for my latest move. I sold my records, books and DVDs, threw out bag after bag of crap I’d been hoarding for far too long. I got rid of virtually all my furniture, scaled down on clothes and succumbed to the modernist ways of storing as much stuff as I could electronically. In the end all I was left with were about a dozen boxes, which were channeled off back to England with my parents for safekeeping.
When I arrived in the Chinese city of Rui’an in April 2017 I was travelling as lightly as I ever had, my entire life consisting of a small suitcase, a backpack and my computer bag. This time I refused to put any pressure on myself about how long I’d stay for. I just decided to relax and see how things panned out. As it happens, China Part III has gone pretty well, despite regular scandals at work and the usual chaos that is my love life. Nearly eighteen months later and I’ve taken great strides in the development of Leighton Literature and travelled all over the south of China in my off time. In between my two teaching contracts I even found time for a month running around Vietnam, a simply incredible trip that left me with nothing but great memories and another Asian country ticked off.
If anything my third time in China has been my most stabilizing, at least in the sense of how I look at myself and process this lifestyle of mine. For the first time ever I’m totally at peace with the idea that at my very core I’m a traveller who loves to explore. So I’ve stopped telling myself that I need to settle down and that I really should be doing this, or gotta be doing that. Happier still, the mushrooming of this humble blog has given me a definite sense of focus, put me in touch with likeminded people and opened up all kinds of tantalizing possibilities.
At the time of writing I’m mapping out my final months in China with yet more domestic trips before a long overdue visit home to catch up with family and friends back in The UK. Beyond that I feel almost dizzy with the various ideas spinning about in my head. Whatever I go on to do next I can’t help but recall a memorable quote from one of my favorite movies, Little Miss Sunshine. Steve Carell and Paul Dano are standing at the end of the pier having escaped the awful beauty contest. Dano’s character Dwayne, even as an inexperienced, socially awkward teen, recognizes that life doesn’t have to be about following the herd and doing what’s expected. You don’t have to sit behind a desk from 9-5 every day, you don’t have to get married and have kids and you certainly don’t have to win a beauty pageant to get a sense of acceptance and self worth. “If I wanna fly I’ll find a way to fly” he says, gazing out to sea. “You do what you love and fuck the rest”.
Leighton – September 2018.
This article serves as a kind of compact overview of my global wanderings. For more details on the places I’ve seen and the things I’ve done, check out my colossal library of Travel Reports.
For more juicy details of my eventful life as a world wanderer, you can also read a whole bunch of candid tales with My Short Stories.