From Mogren to Rajska Vala: A Budva Beach Adventure.

From Mogren to Rajska Vala: A Budva Beach Adventure in Montenegro.

September-October 2021.

It’s been fun adding Budva to the archives these past weeks, but alas, today’s post brings the series to a close. After sharing an overview of a month spent living in and exploring Budva—plus a standalone report on its superb Old Town and Citadel—I’m wrapping things up with our adventures on what are arguably Budva’s two most impressive beaches.

It was a warm, overcast late afternoon when, for the umpteenth time, Sladja and I found ourselves back on Ričardova Glava Beach, gazing once more across lovely Budva Bay. The place was perfectly quiet, with no sign of anyone—let alone Richard Widmark, after whom the beach is puzzlingly named.

This time, however, we wouldn’t be stopping. Instead, we followed a narrow paved coastal path that winds west around the cliffs.

On one side of the path, sturdy railings keep overly adventurous visitors from clambering onto the rocks and getting into trouble. On the other, a sweeping mesh net protects walkers from falling stones. The path stretches for about 400 metres before leading directly to Mogren Beach.

From Mogren to Rajska Vala: A Budva Beach Adventure.

Along the way, we came across the thoroughly charming Ballerina Statue—also known as the Dancer Statue, the Dancing Girl, or, if you’re feeling cheeky, The Girl Who Lost Her Swimsuit. Elegantly perched on a large rock, this bronze figure is both a beloved town symbol and popular photo stop. It was created by the talented Macedonian artist Gradimir Aleksić.

As you might expect, a handful of legends surround the statue. One familiar tale, echoed in coastal towns across the world, claims it depicts a young woman waiting faithfully for her sailor lover, tragically lost at sea. Another story insists she was a gymnast—without tutu and, in fact, entirely nude—who drowned in a nearby accident. Hmm.

Further along the trail, we paused to take in choice views of the bay and to marvel at the towering cliff face looming above us. Crane your neck for a better look and you never quite know what—or who—you might see. There are numerous sheltered spots, ideal for a late afternoon catnap.

Moreover, several rock-cut alcoves invite you to step inside and explore, making the walk to Mogren as rewarding as the destination itself.

On we pushed, following the trail as it curved tightly around the cliffs.

It felt like the perfect moment to pause, turn back, and take one last lingering look at Budva before leaving it behind.

Exploring Montenegro.

Yet before long, the path twisted once more, and there it was again—the town reappearing in full splendour beneath the autumnal sky.

A few minutes later, Mogren Beach finally came into view. With just an hour or so of sunlight left, the sands were quiet, scattered with no more than a dozen sunbathers remaining from the day’s crowds. Following the path down, we strolled slowly along the beach, soaking up its late-afternoon calm.

Mogren (often written as Mogrini or Magrini in old records) takes its name from a Spanish sailor who, legend has it, survived a shipwreck here. In gratitude for his salvation, he supposedly built a small church nearby. That church—if it ever truly existed—has long since vanished with the passing centuries.

Within minutes of stepping onto the sand, we both agreed: Mogren was our favourite beach in Budva so far. The sand was soft and clean, the waters inviting, the atmosphere serene. At the far end, dramatic cliffs rose as if sculpted by hand, giving the beach a cinematic backdrop. Passing a beach bar, we noticed the staff already winding down for the evening.

From Mogren to Rajska Vala: A Budva Beach Adventure.

Down by the water’s edge, a local dog captured the mood perfectly—relaxed, unhurried, utterly at ease.

Happily, the Adriatic was still warm enough for a swim, so Sladja wasted no time, diving in for a dip. As she swam, I was delighted to find Mogren offered yet more unique angles for photographing the ever-present Sveti Nikola Island.

Post-swim, we sauntered to the far end of Mogren Beach, only to stumble upon a delightful surprise: an adjoining beach accessible via a boardwalk that cuts straight through a cave tunnel. Naturally, we decided it had to be explored. The only problem? We were quickly running out of daylight.

A few days later, we returned—this time determined to go through the cave and see what awaited on the other side. The crossing proved quite exciting, as the narrow, rickety boardwalk didn’t leave much room for error.

Poor Sladja found this out the hard way. Seconds after I snapped the below photo, she stumbled slightly, and one of her flip-flops slipped free, tumbling off the bridge into the water below.

We hurried on, hoping to track its whereabouts from the far side of the tunnel. Sure enough, I soon spotted the flip-flop bobbing forlornly out to sea. Acting on instinct, I decided there was just enough time to salvage it. Jumping in, I managed to grab it without too much fuss and splashed my way back to shore.

Flip-flop Rescue!

According to Google Maps, this second stretch is unimaginatively titled Mogren Beach II. Not the most inspired name, but the place itself was every bit as tranquil as its neighbour.

We strolled lazily along the sand, letting the tide lap gently at our ankles. It was here, away from the bar and sunbeds, that I snapped what remains my favourite cat photo from our entire Montenegro trip.

The further we walked, the quieter it became. Eventually, we reached a short but stunning stretch of beach that turned out to have its own name: Rajska Vala, loosely translating to Paradise Bay. True to its name, the sand here was pristine, the waters crystal-clear, the atmosphere wonderfully unspoiled.

At the far end, the way grew more rugged. To reach the last strip of sand and explore the rocks leading up to the cliffs, we first had to scramble over a giant fallen tree.

From Mogren to Rajska Vala: A Budva Beach Adventure.

On the other side, we found just one person: a local fisherman, wisely tucked away in the most peaceful corner imaginable to cast his line. Little did we know it then, but an even quieter and more remote spot lay ahead.

It was here, gazing up at the intimidating rocks and cliff face, that I spotted what looked like the perfect viewpoint. A surely unmatched perch from which to absorb the magic of the bay. There is a curious memorial plaque set into the cliff in honour of a “national hero” by the name of Stefan Filipović. He died in 1942 while fighting either occupying Italian or German soldiers.

I turned to Sladja: “What do you think, can we get up there? Should we, even?” While Sladja was far from convinced, she ultimately agreed to give it a go and off we went, picking our steps very carefully indeed as we ascended.

In truth, the climb was far more perilous than we’d anticipated. But we kept on moving, slowly, slowly, until opting to take a short break around halfway up. It was here that we passed another couple who were doing the reverse route. Like us, they decided to take a halfway rest.

The Viewpoint Hike from Rajska Vala Beach.

Having recharged our lungs, not to mention nerves, we set back off for the last segment of the climb. And boy were we delighted, and mightily relieved, when at long last we got to the top safely.

Was it worth it? Yes, undoubtedly. The views were so stupendous I think it’s best to let this gallery do the talking.

Initially, I thought we’d been alone up there. But then we saw a fisherman, who clearly blew the other guy away to claim top prize for Best Fishing Spot. Respect.

Sladja and I stayed up on the viewpoint for a while, savouring the moment. Unfortunately, we did need to get back down to civilisation. When the time came we tackled the descent just as we had on the way up. Baby steps, taking no chances whatsoever, staying close together. Stopping here and there to take more photographs of the fabulous vista.

From Mogren to Rajska Vala: A Budva Beach Adventure.

It felt fantastic when, at long last, we found ourselves somewhat sliding down the final stretch of hill to plant our feet back on Rajska Vala Beach. This was one of our most satisfying Budva experiences. One that didn’t cost a penny, and hadn’t been mentioned in any blogs or guidebooks.

Like this? Check out my many articles from across Montenegro.

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