Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Kotor Farmers’ Market.

Much to our satisfaction, the stall owners were happy to let us browse without applying the hard sell. What’s more, much of what was on offer looked fresh, clean, and well presented—from the produce, cheeses, and meats to the fish, baked goods, and homemade delicacies.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor: Grab some cheese from a Montenegrin Meryl Streep.

A market wash station beneath a fabulous 17th century city wall carving.

From the market we made the very short walk to the old town’s main and prettiest entrance arch: the Venetian era Sea Gate constructed in 1555. Before entering, we paused to take note of the carved date – the 21st of November 1944 – a reference to Kotor’s liberation from the Nazis.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Hordes of visitors pass through this gate every day to enter the old town. But few that we saw stopped to admire the spectacular ancient art that lives within.

Take this limestone relief of Madonna and Child, for example, which dates back to the 15th century. She is flanked by two saints: Tryphon to the left (more on him later) and Bernard, an influential Venetian governor who played a pivotal role in defending the city from those pesky Ottomans.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Speaking of the Ottomans, a beautifully preserved Latin tablet commemorates Kotor’s great military victory in the infamous siege of 1647. Forgive my rusty Latin, but it says something along the lines of:

“In the name and glory of God and in memory of the noble Bernard of Illyria, general of arms, who successfully repelled the Turkish forces that besieged this city”.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Last but not least, one can’t help but fail to smile at the sight of this somewhat enigmatic dragon / basilisk / wyvern type creature. While experts disagree on what it is exactly, most concur that is was a protective symbol of some sort and a Venetian recognition of strength, unity and vigilance against enemies.

Hmm, I have a hunch that the heart above the dragon’s head doesn’t date back to the 17th century.

On the other side of the Sea Gate we emerged into the vast and dramatic Boka Navy Square (Trg Bokeljske Mornarice), a public plaza steeped in maritime tradition. Indeed, it takes its name from what some historian claim is the world’s oldest seafaring fraternity.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

A witness to centuries of change, the square has quite literally seen it all, from medieval expansion, Venetian rule and Ottoman attacks to Austro-Hungarian administration, Yugoslav unity and Montenegrin independence. No wonder today it serves as Kotor’s hub for cultural events and traditional ceremonies.

Boka Navy Square bathed in an otherworldly morning light with the sun partially stuck behind Kotor Fortress.

Packed with Venetian-era townhouses, ornate balconies and carved family crests, Boka Navy Square is a photographer’s dream. Its focal point is the elegant limestone clock tower, a baroque-Gothic masterpiece constructed in 1602.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Tick, tock.

In its heyday the tower remained visible from just about any point of the walled city, despite being only three storeys tall. The short stone structure that stands at the foot of the tower is the support of what was once a Shaming Post. A spot where local authorities chained up petty criminals for public humiliation. Bring your rotten vegetables etc. Imagine standing here in the 1600s as the clock tower rang out for shaming time.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

It certainly paid off to get to the old town early in the morning, before the day’s crowds descended. In fact, it enabled us to fully appreciate its beauty and history as we mooched around soaking up the atmosphere and picking out little details. Gradually, the souvenir shops began opening.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

In a quiet corner, we watched as a cunning cat skilfully crept closer to a scattering of unsuspecting pigeons. Careful, guys.

“I will destroy all of you”.

With everything so peaceful, we decided to take breakfast on the square, before diving into our explorations in earnest. From the handful of eateries on offer, we opted for the cafe at Historic Boutique Hotel Cattaro. Constructed from within the city walls, it is a lovely spot from which to enjoy some coffee and food.

Boka Navy Square.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

As soon as I saw the traditional Peasant’s Breakfast (seoski doručak), my decision was made. Hearty and delicious, it came as an inviting plate of fried eggs, smoky cured Montenegrin ham (pršut), a rich, creamy dairy spread called kajmak, and a white, salty, feta-like cheese known as Njeguški sir.

However, it was the fried dough sticks (uštipci) that stole the show—golden and crispy on the outside, soft and fluffy within.

A breakfast fit for a peasant.

From Boka Navy Square we dove further into the old town to explore its captivating maze of characterful, labyrinthine streets.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Although undeniably touristy in parts, there is no containing Kotor’s immense charm. Particularly when one comes across hidden courtyards, or a peaceful, less-trodden square. Of these, our top recommendation is to seek out the lovely Cinema Square (Trg od Kina).

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

The square is home to Boka Cinema, one of Montenegro’s oldest and most cherished movie theatres. Established in 1952, it was relocated to its current location in 2004, taking over the ruinous Church of Our Lady of the Angels. 

Boka Cinema.

Even if you’re not here to see a film, this is a wonderful square to pause and enjoy a drink. Ombra Restaurant, the only food and drink spot here, offers outdoor seating beneath the shade of a magnificent black poplar tree that has stood here since the late 1660s.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

A helluva tree.

From Cinema Square we happily got lost. For those who take the time to pause and look, there are gorgeous details abound. Painted wooden doors… hanging lanterns… carved wooden flowers… sculpted stone figurines… crumbly ledges where pigeons coo and ruffle their feathers.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

It’s all about the details.

Furthermore, local art thrives. Like this hanging sculpture of Jonathan Seagull on Hajduk Square by a local artist called Goran Moskov.

Please don’t shit on me, giant seagull.

Elsewhere, we came upon a ceiling of floating umbrellas outside Marinaio Tavern.

Cunningly out of reach.

We also liked this hanging laundry installation outside Cafe Bar Letrika, one of the old town’s most hidden and atmospheric spots.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Tucked away in a tricky-to-reach side street, we felt so charmed by Letrika that we stopped for a beer to give our legs a well-deserved rest.

A lovely corner of the old town.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

We have read wildly varying reviews of the joint, with many reviewers bitterly complaining about aggressive staff. We certainly didn’t experience anything like that, our waiter succeeding in pouring two beers and taking our money without issue.

Cafe Bar Letrika.

Wherever one might find themselves in the old town, an ancient church is never far away. There are around thirty in total in an array of styles that showcase Kotor’s diverse cultural and religious influences. One of the most picture perfect is St. Michael’s Church, situated on a pretty cobbled square against a backdrop of mountains with glimpses of Kotor Fortress.

Church of St. Michael.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Built in the late 13th century, this Romano-Gothic beauty now stands as a lapidarium. Check out the 15th-century frescoes by Lovro Dobričević, a prominent Gothic painter from the Kotor region who was trained in Venice.

Church of St. Michael.

Visitors are free to view the many magnificent treasures on display, including an outdoor section around the side of the church that is home to engraved headstones, columns, stone slabs and decorative pieces.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Some of the objects are incredibly well-preserved and impressive; not least this sculpture of the Roman Emperor Domitian. Dating back to the 1st Century AD (!), the white marble creation is one of only three sculptural representations of the emperor in the world. The others are in Paris (namely the Louvre) and The Vatican Museum.

Emperor Domitian: Well “a head” of his time.

Another must-see church is Saint Tryphon’s Cathedral, a colossal structure that holds court over the massive St Tryphon’s Square.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

St. Tryphon’s Cathedral.

Consecrated in 1166 and rebuilt in the 13th century, this Roman Catholic church was built to enshrine the relics of Saint Tryphon, a 3rd-century Christian martyr revered for his supposed healing powers.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

The church’s interior includes a fascinating Sacral Art Museum. There are hundreds of paintings, sculptures, statues and religious artefacts on display. Unsettlingly, much of the imagery revolves around the crucifixion.

Kotor Sacral Art Museum.

St Tryphon’s Cathedral.

Eventually, having seen what felt like a million images of Jesus nailed to a cross, we emerged onto a balcony offering views across the square. It was certainly a much-needed dose of light relief to do some people-watching for a bit before heading back outside.

Square life.

I’m pretty sure Sladja and I stumbled across most of Kotor’s thirty-odd churches during our wanderings. While others might have said, “Alright, enough with the churches,” we couldn’t resist poking our heads in for a quick look. Here’s a gallery featuring some of our favourites.

Churches, churches, churches.

Saint Clare Church (17th century).

Ruins of the Dominican Monastery of St. Nicholas, viewable within the walled compound of Kotor Bazaar.

Orthodox Church of St Nicholas. Kotor’s largest Orthodox Church, constructed between 1902 and 1909.

Kotor isn’t just watched over by churches and ancient city walls though. In fact, its true guardians (and we may be biased here) roam on four paws. Yup, cats are absolutely everywhere, slipping through alleyways, sunning themselves on stone steps, and lounging like whiskery emperors on every square.

Cat-or.

They are incredibly endearing, but actually their importance to Kotor goes way beyond cute photo ops. You see, the town’s kitty community grew out of practical necessity. As a port town in its Venetian heyday, rats soon became a problem. Thus locals began bringing cats in to take care of the rats and help deal with a worsening plague.

The kitties of Kotor.

In time locals began to view cats as resilient survivors, much like Kotor itself, which has endured earthquakes, sieges, plagues, and the rise and fall of various empires.

“Yes, human, I will take your strokes, but you know it’s the pancake I’m really after”.

As a result, Kotor’s residents ensure their feline friends are well-fed and respected. Similar to our experiences in Istanbul, we saw bowls of food and water left outside shops, homes, and churches. Heck, there are even a few cat statues in tribute to their purring co-habitants.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

King of the ledge.

In addition to creative napping stations.

“Please, don’t wake me, no, don’t shake me. Leave me where I am…”

“… I’m only sleeping”.

In order to celebrate two wonderful days of exploring, we capped off our time in Kotor with dinner at Cesarica Restaurant. It’s another spot that’s cocooned in a seemingly secretive corner; not the easiest to seek out.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

Enjoying our chicken and seafood dishes with a jug of red wine, we savoured the moment as yet another local kitty appeared with clearly only one thing on its mind.

“Spare a scrap, sir?”

Typically, we are suckers for a pair of expectant eyes. However, on this occasion we held back, paying heed to the various signs around the tables that asked patrons not to succumb to begging.

Exploring the Old Town of Kotor.

This got me wondering how many people simply ignore the sign. The answer came just moments later, when I spotted this fat guy flopped out under a nearby table. Only in Kotor.

“Seriously, I’m starving”.

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