Touring the Hero P-821 Submarine in Tivat.

Touring the Hero P-821 Submarine in Tivat.

September 2021.

It certainly came as a surprise when, one sunny afternoon, Sladja and I came across a giant submarine parked in one of the squares in Porto Montenegro. Well, two submarines, in actual fact, a kind of mum and daughter duo.

I have since read a few online articles claiming that these historic vessels are something of a hidden gem. Which made me laugh, as the bloody great things literally couldn’t be any more conspicuous.

Eventually, having settled into daily Tivat life, we stopped by one afternoon for a closer look. To our delight we learned that both subs were built by the Yugoslav Navy: Mama Hero P-821 in the 196os, baby Una 912 in the 1980s. Moreover, we realised that it was possible to take a guided tour of Hero P-821!

The opportunity to go exploring around the interior of a Cold War era Yugoslav submarine proved far too tempting to turn down. Thus we made our reservations and took our places among a group of around eight people one afternoon.

Touring the Hero P-821 Submarine in Tivat.

Our tour guide was a cheerful local chap, full of enthusiasm for the sub’s history. His English wasn’t too bad, but he spoke through a mask and had a thick Montenegrin accent, so some of the information got lost along the way.

Given the sub’s cramped communal spaces and narrow walkways, he insisted that all tour members wear masks too — which was fair enough, no complaints. However, it didn’t take long for claustrophobia to kick in, thanks to the heat and the limited space to manoeuvre around the other participants.

Hero P-821 was built in 1967 in Split, Croatia, the lead vessel of a series of submarines known as the Hero Class. Classified as an electric diesel patrol-and-attack sub, its primary functions were coastal defence and surveillance operations in the Adriatic Sea.

With its streamlined hull design and four bow-facing torpedo tubes (used for minelaying), she was a revelation of her time and the absolute pride and joy of the Yugoslav Navy.

When in Tivat…

With a length of just 50.4 metres, P-821 enjoyed a relatively compact size that allowed it to navigate coastal waters quietly and efficiently. During the thousands of drills it performed throughout the 1960s, 70s and 80s, the crew would often simulate attack scenarios in addition to practicing evasion techniques and carrying out tracking exercises.

Which all sounds like a very exciting time for P-821’s crew members. The thing is, the submarine never actually saw active conflict across its 25 year life span. Not a bad gig overall I’d say for those employed onboard.

After the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991, Hero P-821 was soon decommissioned. Following a period of neglect, the sub was eventually restored to its former glory and placed on permanent exhibition in Porto Montenegro in 2011.

With our guide’s brief presentation over he gave us around fifteen minutes to explore the sub independently. Indeed there was little in the way of supervision and no strict rules in place regarding photography or things that couldn’t be touched.

Touring the Hero P-821 Submarine in Tivat.

A quick word on the baby sub that sits next to mama. Unfortunately we couldn’t get inside this one, but it was cool to get a quick overview of its story. Known as Una Class 912, this single-hull “midget” sub was created specifically as a vessel that could lay minefields. Furthermore, it made for a handy transporter to move crew members between larger submarines.

Both submarines sit outside the small but fascinating Naval Heritage Museum. Entry to the museum is 2 Euros per person, or 7 Euros pp in a combo ticket with a tour of P-821.

For the most part the museum is a display of Montenegrin maritime weapons, machinery and watercraft. It also presents some of the most memorable stories and characters from the country’s colourful maritime history.

Among the most impressive pieces in display, I liked this nifty looking R-2 Mala-class swimmer delivery vehicle. The model dates back to the 90s when the Croatian Navy used them for taking naval commandos into hostile waters for sabotage missions on enemy warships!

In between a cluster of fascinating machines, I also enjoyed examples of 1980s safety reminder art! Apparently these posters were staples inside military vessels, vehicles and workplaces where dangerous machinery was in use.

The Naval Heritage Museum.

From the various stories we read there is one that really stands out. It tells the tale of The Zagreb Destroyer, a formidable beast that was the first warship built in Yugoslavia. It entered service just as World War II broke out in 1939 and enjoyed an action-packed albeit short life.

In April 1941 she was in the Bay of Kotor when it came under vicious attack from Italian fighter planes. Damaged but not quite down and out, the crew subsequently received word that the Yugoslav Armed forces were preparing to surrender and that everyone aboard should immediately abandon ship.

This is precisely what most people aboard The Zagreb duly did. However, two officers by the name of Milan Spasić and Sergej Mašera decided they would rather go out with a bang. Unknown to the Italians, who were fast approaching, they had set off scuttling charges which resulted in huge explosions and the sinking of the ship. Sacrificing themselves in the process, both men posthumously received the Order of the People’s Hero.

On the top floor of the museum, in stark contrast to the tone of the military stuff, we checked out a small art exhibition focusing on the beauty of Montenegrin architecture and coastal landscapes.

Naval Heritage Museum.

Created by local artists, the pieces were on loan from the nearby Gayo Gallery — Montenegro’s first private art gallery, with a history of exhibitions dating back to 1989. A peaceful, reflective end to a fascinating afternoon.

Like this? Check out my many articles from across Montenegro.

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