"Short stories and travel reports from my life adventures around the globe".

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

Dhle Diely Bratislava.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

In September 2002 I rocked up in Bratislava with a couple of bags and just enough cash to last until my first pay check. And so unfolded one of the great years of my life…


‘‘Slovakia!?’’ he cried, with an arched eyebrow. ‘‘Get to fuck! You’re not gonna go there!’’ I was in a hostel in Copenhagen when I made the decision. Eyes closed, right hand making broad clockwise circles prior to my index finger landing firmly on the tatty wall map.

‘‘Come on… do it again!’’ snapped my Irish dormmate, visibly irked by how things had ended up. ‘‘Even with my eyes closed, I could find Australia’’.

Well, so could I if it really came down to it. But the idea was to do it blindly without manipulating the outcome in any way. Plus a deal was a deal, even if the pact had only been made with myself. 

Up on the Hill a short story from Slovakia.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

But how to actually go about finding a job in Slovakia? Back in England a few weeks later, I was stunned to come across an advert on Dave’s ESL Café, the online mecca for TEFL jobs across the globe. 

Teachers needed in Bratislava!

Without delay I sprang into life! Tinkering with my CV, constructing a cover letter, adding a freshly taken photograph. Clickety click in Hotmail… send.

The telephone call came quickly and before I knew what was happening, I found myself sitting face to face with an eccentric old gentleman called Paul. Wrapped up in a crusty old cardigan, he sat puffing away on a pipe, patently disinterested in giving me a proper interview.

‘‘TEFL Certificate eh? Splendid! A year teaching in Qatar eh? Jolly good’’.

The school in question was a privately owned language institute that needed thirty new teachers by the end of the month. According to Paul, the race was well and truly on to meet this quota before deadline day. ‘‘Sign here and here’’ he said cheerfully, as I sat wondering why I’d bothered to wear a tie. ‘‘Have a good flight!’’.

Up on the Hill a short story from Slovakia

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

When I touched down at Bratislava Airport a few weeks later I was met, as expected, by a school representative. But I certainly hadn’t foreseen an attractive Slovak woman with wavy red hair and snow-white skin.

Spilling out into arrivals, I spotted her in a long patchwork coat, a rainbow scarf wound around her neck. Seriously, she could have been a Doctor Who girl. Smiling expectantly, she held up a homemade placard adorned with a colourful and spectacularly misspelt version of my name.

‘‘Mr. Lignon!’’ she sang merrily, with a pearly white smile. ‘‘I’m Zuzana, welcome to Slovakia!’’ Her extended hand was cold to the touch but welcoming warm. ‘‘Let’s go’’ she laughed, relieving me of one of my bags, ‘‘Vadim is waiting’’.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

Up on the Hill a short story from Slovakia

Vadim turned out to be the school’s driver and all-round odd job man. With a scarred and weathered face only a mother could love, he greeted me from the front seat with a crooked grin. ‘‘Vadim doesn’t speak English’’ giggled Zuzana, giving me a playful nudge. Then, with a clipped instruction, she ordered him to get going and off we sped towards my new life.

I’d read that Bratislava wasn’t what one would call a beautiful city. And it didn’t take long during that first drive to realise that boy they weren’t kidding! Although approaching nearly a decade of independence since the peaceful dissolution of Czechoslovakia in 1993, the city came across as a place still very much stuck in its grim communist past.

Street sculptures Bratislava.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

Photo Courtesy of Nate Robert.

Street after street of grey, cookie-cutter high-rises flew by my window, immutable save for irregular bursts of spidery black graffiti. Stopping at a set of traffic lights in some horrid run-down road, I watched as an old woman plodded by carrying two bulging bags of vegetables.

Passing an overflowing dumpster, she traipsed right through a pile of broken glass, her expression unwavering. Eyes fixed rigidly ahead. It was as if I’d been dropped into a real life rendition of George Orwell’s 1984. A silent black and white world of suffocating lethargy.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

The number 9 Tram Obchodna Street Bratislava.

Obchodna Street, Bratislava.

Photo courtesy of Michael Olsen. 

The landscape played out like this for most of the ride until we hit the city centre. Suddenly there were collections of shops, sporadic eruptions of color, people who didn’t look like peasants. Turning onto Obchodna Street and things were even more bustling, with cafes, street vendors, restaurants and a few pubs.

A bulky tram clunked by, perilously close to the pedestrians on either side. In the distance loomed the filthy brown-orange of Bratislava Castle, a Halloween-like structure where I imagined Vadim perhaps resided in one of the dungeons.

Bratislava Castle 2002.

Bratislava Castle in 2002.

Slowly we picked our way through the busyness of Obchodna Street before taking an unexpected turn into a quiet cul-de-sac. ‘‘Here we are!’’ chirped Zuzana as we pulled up outside the school. Jumping out, she led me inside while Vadim hung back smoking, shoulders hunched, eyes narrowed.

Entering the main hall, the school’s pleasantness instantly washed over me. Soft colors, a studious quiet, the faint smell of freshly-brewed coffee. ‘‘This is Veronica!’’ sang Zuzana, with a nod to the girl at reception. Dark-haired and pretty, she gave me a shy smile as we passed through a series of small offices.

‘‘Thomas!’’ came a shrill voice from behind a desk.

And over she strode, a diminutive forty something lady with a polite but businesslike air. Alert eyes, pursed lips, make-up induced paleness.

‘‘I’m Katka…’’ she announced, ‘‘…the assistant director. I trust you had a good flight?’’ I began to assure her I had, but she’d already moved on. ‘‘Zuzana and Vadim will take you to your apartment! It’s in Dlhé diely… up on the hill. Many teachers will live there’’.

Dooley Wheredy?

Just then a giant of a woman paced in. Not overweight by any description, but a good head and shoulders above myself with legs like Cleopatra needles. Provocatively dressed in a black miniskirt and a tight top that struggled to contain her ample bosom, she was impossible to ignore. Not least due to her fiery-red hair and the brightest of bright red lipstick. Attractive in her own way I supposed, though not really my cup of tea. 

“Thomas this is Katka… the director! Katka, this is Thomas’’.

The three women noticed my confused look, which caused a ripple of communal laughter. Thankfully, Katka 1.0 leaned in to explain. ‘‘A lot of ladies in Slovakia named Katka. But don’t worry, you can call me Little Katka, she is Big Katka!’’ This was followed by more chuckling, hence I could only smile courteously at what was obviously a well-rehearsed routine.

The drive to Dlhé diely was a fifteen minute breeze. But when Little Katka had said ‘‘up on the hill’’, she could easily have meant atop a mountain. With Vadim’s old car taking us higher and higher up the winding road, the landscape began to open up impressively.

Before long I was treated to extensive views over Bratislava and The River Danube, the panorama beyond even stretching as far as Austria. ”You’re lucky’’ said Zuzana, watching me take it all in. ‘‘We have teachers living all over the city. But it’s best here, up on the hill’’.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

Up on the Hill a short story from Slovakia

Dhle Diely.

Architecturally, Dlhé diely was nothing but blocks of flats. But unlike the grey featureless rows of rotting teeth I’d seen earlier, here someone had at least attempted to inject some colour. In fact, many of the high-rises were multi-coloured affairs, with painted columns of blue, red, green, white and yellow.

Thus it was in front of one such building in a street called Hlaváciková that we came to a halt. ‘‘This is it!!!’’ exclaimed Zuzana, as if we’d just pulled up outside Buckingham Palace.

Dhle Diely residential neighbourhood Bratislava.

Up on the Hill, a short story from Slovakia.

Underwhelmed, but well aware that things could be far worse, I followed Zuzana inside. In a dank, dark hallway with all the charm of a morgue we stood waiting for the elevator as it wheezed towards us with a series of tired thuds. ‘‘Old building’’ she muttered, with a nervous smile. 

After a terrifying thirty seconds in the elevator, we arrived at the apartment, where I was greeted by a towering Californian with sandy blonde hair and a wide grin.

‘‘I never go in that thing. Slovak engineering dude!”

‘‘This is Lignon’’ offered Zuzana helpfully. ‘‘Actually it’s Leighton’’ I laughed, accepting Rich’s firm handshake as Zuzana cocked her head to one side, nonplussed.

It’s a pretty big place for two people’’ explained Rich, leading us through the spacious hallway into a dim living room. The furniture was old and worn, shades of faded brown and grimy yellow. ‘‘There’s actually three bedrooms, so we’re probably gonna get someone else soon’’.

Moving into the largely featureless kitchen, Rich took a stool at the breakfast bar, returning to a bowl of fried vegetables. ‘‘Very healthy’’ I noted, opening a creaky door to the filthy enclosed balcony.

“Yeah dude… gonna live forever’’.

Having signed a few forms and received a set of keys from Zuzana, I claimed one of the remaining rooms and sat on the bed reflecting on how rapidly everything had progressed since Copenhagen. 

‘‘Lignon, you want coffee?’’ came Zuzana’s lilting voice from the kitchen. ‘‘Yes please’’ I called back, before setting to work on the brief process of unpacking.

‘Up on The Hill’ is the first installment of my short story series The Slovak Files.

You can also check out my extended travel report on Bratislava

Access my other short story collections here.

I’ve been living, working and traveling all over the world since 2001. So why not check out my huge library of travel reports from over 30 countries.

Leighton Travels logo travel reports and short stories.



  • Minty Lin

    It felt like the beginning of a novel. Much enjoyed. Interested in what’s gonna happen in the following chapters!

    January 4, 2015 - 6:01 am Reply
  • Badda-bing

    Vladim living in the castle dungeons! O it had to be true!

    January 4, 2015 - 7:55 am Reply
    • Divi

      Whoa that was interesting! Lignon, really 😂? I cannot wait for the next chapter to come!

      July 13, 2021 - 11:25 am Reply
      • Leighton

        Thanks Divi! Yes, in fact when I first started my blog I considered calling it “Lignon Travels”. Hope you enjoy the series!

        July 13, 2021 - 11:28 am
  • Mary Phillips

    Oh, this is going to be fun!

    January 4, 2015 - 1:52 pm Reply
  • Beverley

    Can’t wait for the next chapter.

    January 4, 2015 - 3:26 pm Reply
  • Anonymous

    Such a bucolic setting, surely no lurking maniacal Snow Abyss could abide amongst those verdant hills, or could it?

    January 4, 2015 - 4:45 pm Reply
    • leightonliterature

      The Snow Abyss – coming to a Slovak File near you.


      January 5, 2015 - 2:04 am Reply
  • Gemma Duncan

    This is amazing Leighton! I used to feel so creeped out by a woman from Bratislava at work as the only reference I had to the place was Hostel !!! Looking forward to what happens next……….

    January 5, 2015 - 9:12 pm Reply
  • Carol anderson Matthews

    Lignon!!! Excellent work – brings up great memories. Vadim, Rich, Katka. Please continue the story.

    January 8, 2015 - 5:26 pm Reply
  • Anonymous

    It made me go through old photos,sniff sniff ..

    January 8, 2015 - 5:39 pm Reply
  • leightonliterature

    Thanks for all the feedback! The reaction to this first part has been humbling. Subsequent installments will come out each Sunday.

    January 9, 2015 - 3:05 am Reply
  • David Jago

    Ah, Paul. Was this 2001 or 2002? I never met Paul (did he live in Windsor?), we just had a phone-interview, but we actually went to school together: the Royal Grammar School, High Wycombe, though I never knew him there – I was at the top of the school, when he was at the bottom. (Yes, that’s right: he was my junior!) By the time we had dissected all the foibles of the staff in the 1950s, he certainly had no doubts about my credentials! Embarking on a career in a different area of teaching, after five years in a secondary school and thirty-three in a university, it was a very fortunate coincidence for me!

    January 11, 2015 - 11:39 pm Reply
  • leightonliterature

    What an insight David, I had no idea! I’m not sure where he lived but I believe our interview was in Chalfont St. Peter or thereabouts. Welcome to LL and I hope you enjoy the series!

    January 12, 2015 - 2:23 am Reply
  • Chris Axon

    I really liked this. Splendid stuff. I visited Bratislava once in 1997 for a game and I remember around six of us drank all of the available beer in a small, central cellar bar. I love cellar bars in the old Eastern Europe. Is the second part available too?

    May 17, 2020 - 5:41 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Hi Chris, thank you so much for reading and taking the time to comment. Yes, all 12 chapters of The Slovak Files are on the site. I will be reposting them two a day over the next six days. Alternatively, you can work through them at your own page by clicking on the link at the end of each story. Or by simply visiting ‘My short stories’ and accessing The Slovak Files from there.

      May 17, 2020 - 5:59 pm Reply
  • Chris Axon

    Yes, I realise that now…I will wait to see them pop up in my inbox…will give me something to look forward to…hope you are well.

    May 17, 2020 - 6:01 pm Reply
  • Memo

    Fascinating narrative and so filled with vivid details. All the better to bring back the memories.

    May 17, 2020 - 10:11 pm Reply
  • pedmar10

    Nice memories going there on the road warrior trip!

    July 13, 2021 - 8:58 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks for reading, will take a look!

      July 13, 2021 - 9:00 am Reply
  • wetanddustyroads

    Ah, I love this story … felt as if I was now there with you in that old elevator – you should have taken the stairs 👀. You were indeed up on the hill – sometimes the view makes up for the accommodation 😉.
    Oh, and I had to laugh … when my husband and I walked the Camino in Spain, we’ve briefly met a girl from Slovakia and her name … yes of course, it was Katka 😁 (she was really beautiful and though she was travelling on her own … she never walked alone).

    July 13, 2021 - 11:50 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Ahhhh so you have met your very own Katka! Thanks for reading this first chapter and I hope you enjoy the series.

      July 13, 2021 - 11:56 am Reply
  • travelling_han

    I read every word from start to finish, I can’t wait to read more Lignon! 🙂

    July 13, 2021 - 1:12 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Ha ha thanks Hannah. Hope you enjoy the journey.

      July 13, 2021 - 1:26 pm Reply
  • kagould17

    What a great story Lignon. Those old blocks of Communist era apartments do look pretty bad. Looking forward to the remaining Katka Kronikals.😁

    July 13, 2021 - 2:46 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks Allan, visually Bratislava wasn’t amazing in those days, although the small old town was really charming. Hope you enjoy the rest of the chapters.

      July 13, 2021 - 2:57 pm Reply

    Great opening gambit, Lignon Leighton Thomas….looking forward to seeing what unfolds

    July 13, 2021 - 6:21 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Ha, cheer! It was quite an eventful year. We were all so young, naive and a tad misguided at times. Thanks for beginning the journey.

      July 13, 2021 - 6:24 pm Reply
  • Little Miss Traveller

    A splendid read Leighton, looking forward to more !

    July 13, 2021 - 10:16 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thank you Marion!

      July 14, 2021 - 10:56 pm Reply
  • Rebecca

    Lovely that you’re recycling through some of your old posts! Considering that I started following you just a year or two ago, I missed out on many of your adventures elsewhere! I only had a half-day in Bratislava five years ago for travel, and it appears that it’s changed a good amount since then, as infrastructure has definitely developed more for tourism and whatnot. As I’ve read your ESL teaching antics in China and Qatar, I can’t wait to read what happens in Slovakia!

    July 14, 2021 - 5:12 am Reply
    • Leighton

      Hey Rebecca, “antics” is a good word actually ha ha. I don’t think I’ve ever been all that wild, but Slovakia was definitely that “loose” year when it felt a bit like one long party. It was a lot of fun, if not a tad embarrassing to look back on those days and everything that went down. Hope you enjoy the ride!

      July 14, 2021 - 8:28 am Reply
  • grandmisadventures

    now that’s a fantastic way to start a new chapter in a new place! Loved the pictures and the story about how you ended up in Bratislava!

    July 14, 2021 - 3:50 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Thanks Meg, hope you enjoy this new series. You must be getting excited for your trip.

      July 14, 2021 - 3:55 pm Reply
  • salsaworldtraveler

    I love the color you add to these stories. It makes them very interesting.

    July 17, 2021 - 7:16 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Appreciate that John, it’s perhaps my favourite among the short story collections I’ve written.

      July 17, 2021 - 7:24 pm Reply
  • Lookoom

    It reads like a dark beginning without a positive outlook. Is it possible to get the return flight earlier?

    July 19, 2021 - 12:24 pm Reply
    • Leighton

      Ha ha ha, I think some thoughts like these were perhaps running through my head too.

      July 19, 2021 - 12:56 pm Reply

Leave a Reply