Travel Report: A Long Ago Weekend in Paris.

A Long Ago Weekend in Paris.

September 2006.

I have read countless travel blogs about Paris over the years. Moreover, I enjoyed Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris and just adore Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s perfect, Paris-set romantic comedy Amelie. (I once interviewed Jeunet, but that’s another story). Usually, whenever I get these little tastes of the French capital, I end up thinking, oh I really should go one day.

And then I have to remind myself that I did go! It was one weekend nearly sixteen years ago. I was just 28 years old, a million miles away from the type of traveller I am now. With my blog not even a glint in the eye, I booked up my trip without much research. Indeed I had no particular plan other than to wander the city and see where the path took me.

I didn’t take nearly as many photos back in those days. Nor had I yet begun my diligent note taking that has served me so well for blogging up old trips. Hence you’ll have to take this report as you find it. I have simply done my best to piece it all together with the material available and my somewhat muddy memories.

I have no idea where I stayed in Paris. Not a Scooby Doo. However, I do remember wasting no time in my digs and heading straight out into the city. It was a warm September afternoon as I hit the Parisian streets. Within just ten minutes I’d stumbled upon my first landmark, the iconic Arc De Triomphe. So keen was I to go up, I actually forgot to photograph the facade.

A Long Ago Weekend in Paris.

Photo courtesy of Jiuguang Wang.

Built between 1806 and 1836, the Arc De Triomphe is a Neoclassical Roman style arch commissioned by Napoleon to honour those who died for France during The French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars.

A 234-step winding staircase took me to the monument’s summit for striking views across the city. I vaguely recall grumbling about the 12 Euro entrance fee. But it was surely worth it, just to see how the city’s numerous avenues seemingly sprout forth from the arch.

Viewed from above, the streets appear (to me at least) like the petals of a flower. It’s a stunning design by the architect Jean Chalgrin, who took inspiration from The Arch of Titus in Rome.

If I ever make it back to Paris, I’d like to do a single article on the arch. After all, there’s so much more I could and should have paid attention to. Such as the six handsome reliefs depicting The French Revolution and the First World War Tomb of The Unknown Soldier. 

A short while later, I found myself strolling onto Avenue des Champs-Elysees, a two kilometre stretch packed full of historical monuments, shops, luxury boutiques and fancy restaurants. I recall the entire avenue was spotlessly clean, despite being stuffed with tables and chairs from across the various eateries. 

Avenue des Champs-Elysees.

Photo courtesy of Josh Hallett. 

A relaxed vibe prevailed, the air awash with light chatter and the clinking of spoons against coffee cups. Thus I opted to take a seat myself and order a cappuccino. It was pretty average and gone in barely two mouthfuls. I was not impressed, even less so when I realised these babies go for €6.40 a cup. I dread to think what one would pay these days. 

Follow Avenue des Champs-Elysees down to the eighth arrondissement at its eastern end and you’ll arrive at Place de la Concorde, a giant public square built in the 1770s. But don’t be fooled by it’s classic facades and gorgeous Beaux-arts fountains. Because this was the grisly site of numerous public executions throughout the 18th century. 

Photo courtesy of Tristan Nitot.

Indeed this is where poor old King Louis XVI was guillotined on the 21st of January 1793. And where his beloved Marie Antoinette met the same fate just nine months later. Ah, the good old French Revolution.

The only shot I took that day on the square was of the towering Luxor Obelisk, a 3000 year old Egyptian needle. This incredible monument once stood outside Egypt’s Luxor Temple. In 1833 it travelled by boat to France as part of a cultural exchange deal between The French government and Muhammad Ali Pasha, the ruler of Ottoman Egypt. Amazingly, all Muhammad wanted in return was an antique French mechanical clock! 

A Long Ago Weekend in Paris.

Just across the road, I instinctively dipped into Tuileries Garden, one of Paris’ finest public parks. Queen Catherine de’ Medici created it in 1564 as part of the royal palace, though it was eventually unveiled as a public park following The French Revolution. 

In the eastern part of the garden, I stoped to hang out by the renowned Grand Bassin, a circular pond with a jet stream fountain. Once upon a time this was exclusively for The Queen’s enjoyment. Now of course it’s for everyone, while in good weather you can hang out on the garden chairs that line the water. Yup, that’s the Luxor Obelisk poking out of the background. 

Near the pond, I came across a local artist painting under a tree. His romantic and playful paintings were quite charming and he endeared himself to me by not bothering with any kind of sales pitch. 

Leafing through his work, I settled on one I liked and paid him in cash. I can’t remember how much he asked for, but it surely wasn’t much. What’s more, he took great care in  rolling his masterpiece up and inserting it into a storage tube for me. While I can’t be 100% sure, I do believe that painting is in one of my famous life boxes stored in the north of Scotland. 

Exploring the French Capital.

Wherever you are in Paris, it seems all roads lead to The Louvre. I saw it towering above the trees long before I actually exited the park. Needless to say it was teeming with people that day. Outside, there were various signs indicating I’d need to wait somewhere between 60-90 minutes to get in. Nah, I thought and continued on my merry way. Another huge reason to go back one day. 

From The Louvre my aimless wanderings took in some intriguing pieces of art. Take the sculpture Écoute, for example, by the artist Henri de Miller. The piece (called Listen in English) sits outside the breathtaking St. Eustache Church.

Dating back to 1532, St. Eustache is one of the city’s most visited churches. Indeed it would take some time to wade through all its impressive history. Among the highlights, the Italian born French composer Jean-Baptiste Lully got married here. Oh, and a guy called Mozart passed through its doors to attend his mother’s funeral in 1778. She was subsequently buried in the church cemetery. Today the church is a major music venue.

Speaking of churches, I did of course swing by the world famous Notre-Dame Cathedral. Regardless of whether you’ve been to Paris or not, just about everyone and his dog knows this church, one of the world’s finest examples of Gothic architecture. 

A Long Ago Weekend in Paris.

Nevertheless, it has to be seen in the flesh, so to speak, to be truly believed. As for the history, it’s just ridiculous. Another reason to come back to The City of Love and give it some proper Leighton Travels treatment. 

For it was right here that Napoleon’s coronation unfolded in 1804. The building that inspired the great Victor Hugo to pen his classic 1831 novel The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. Where numerous French presidents have been laid to rest. I’m certainly glad I got to see it as it was, before the awful fire that devastated the cathedral in April 2019. 

On my second day I wiled away most of the morning at Centre Pompidou, Paris’ dizzying complex of art exhibitions, museums, cinemas and gargantuan public library. It’s safe to say I have never seen a building quite like it, a structure that has all its functional components (plumbing, electrics, air circulation, wires, pipes and escalators) built on the outside. Why not. 

Opened in 1977, The Pompidou got its name from French President Georges Pompidou, who dreamed up the concept of a massive cultural hub right in the heart of Paris. To find out more and see what the latest events are, check in with the official website.

Exploring the French Capital.

With the clock running down on my Paris adventure, I figured it wise to head over to The Eiffel Tower and do what had to be done before dinner. But unfortunately, as an actual experience, I can’t say I enjoyed it much at all.

As one of Planet Earth’s most iconic sights, there were huge crowds, as you’d expect. The number of bodies I could just about deal with. The irritating children getting caught under my feet and the scowling armed guards peppered around the base… less so. 

Still, I ploughed on. I did catch my breath for a moment when I first caught sight of the famous tower as I made my approach. Then, it was quite a workout as I tackled the 674 steps to the second floor.

I could’ve gone the extra mile to the third viewing platform I guess. But on that day, in that moment, I decided I was content with the views I already had. Definitely worth it in the end. Next time, I’d very much like to go that extra mile, particularly to see Gustave Eiffel’s restored office. 

My final evening in Paris played out in the lovely Latin Quarter, a lively neighbourhood of atmospheric, cobblestone streets. It’s also home to Sorbonne University, dating back to 1257. The world’s first university, according to some historians. 

As legend has it, those original scholars would roam the streets speaking Latin as they sought out local watering holes. And so the neighbourhood got its name. That night the entire district was positively joyous, a live band belting out Spanish rock from a wonderful little hole-in-the-wall bar. 

A Long Ago Weekend in Paris.

Quite a crowd had gathered, with dozens of couples dancing wildly in the street. It was all so intoxicating I couldn’t help but smile and tap my feet along to the rhythm. 

The Latin Quarter is also great for street art, with mural after mural on just about every corner. I stopped for a photo with none other than Alfred Hitchcock, created by Jef Aerosol. The artist, born Jean-François Perroy, is a stencil graffiti artist who’s been active around France since 1982!

I remember feeling how I’d perhaps underestimated Paris a little. And that even with my lackadaisical approach to taking in the city sights, I’d still covered plenty. Next time, dear readers, I’ll go deeper with a full series of reports. 

I’ve been living, working and traveling all over the world since 2001. So why not check out my huge library of travel reports from over 30 countries.