Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.


Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
September 2011.
Have you ever thought about what kind of traveller you are? They say there are around five classic types, if you buy into that sort of thing. The Adventurer, for example, is all about pulse-raising activities like wind surfing, hang gliding and bouldering. Nah, that’s not me.
I’m certainly more like The Epicurean, someone who always seeks out the best places to eat. Someone who will, within reason, try any dish once. Moreover, I identify with The Curator, someone who tries to explore as much of the local culture and traditions as possible. And maybe there’s even a bit of The Chameleon in me, the traveller who relishes new opportunities and experiences.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
Finally, there’s The Unwinder, the traveller who is all about chilling out. Preferably on a beach, headphones on, cocktail in hand. For the most part I haven’t been much of an unwinder these past twenty years of global travel. However, there is definitely a time and a place for everything. Step forward the gorgeous Greek island of Crete!
Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.

Georgioupolis.
In September 2011 I was living in Amsterdam. There, I worked for a Dutch media company writing and voice-overing movie and music news. Sometimes, I had to jet off to The U.S. to interview a Hollywood star or two. It was a fun job, but also quite demanding in many ways.
Lying around on a beach had never been top of my travel wish list. But that autumn I just wanted to rest… rest… and rest some more. I can’t remember how my attention got drawn to Crete. But when it did I immediately found myself attracted to a peaceful little village called Georgioupolis on the island’s north coast.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
Home to just under a thousand locals, this fishing-village-turned-tourist-town took its name from Prince George of Greece and Denmark, who was Crete’s High Commissioner in the final years of the Ottoman occupation.

Prince George: The moustache hadn’t worked out quite as he’d hoped.
With very little to do in terms of sights, Georgioupolis was just what I was looking for. Especially the fact that it had managed to stay somewhat under-the-radar, despite having a lovely nine-kilometre stretch of beach. On that first day I strolled down the sands, picked out a quiet spot and settled down with Keith Richards’ excellent autobiography Life.
Georgioupolis Beach.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
Basking in the glow of the sun… enchanted by the ebb and flow of the waves… immersed in the thrilling world of The Rolling Stones… this is how my Georgioupolis stay unfolded for the first four days.

Not a bad view.
In the evenings I would saunter to the village square, just a ten minute walk from my hotel. The route would take me past the pretty Greek Orthodox Church. Unfortunately, it was always locked up, not to mention guarded by a territorial gaggle of street cats. Online meanwhile, I found barely a trace of the church’s history.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
The town square itself was always delightfully low-key, home to just a few stores, a pharmacy, a bank and a cluster of cafes, bars and restaurants.
I must have visited just about every place over the course of my ten-night stay. I’d maybe have some waffles and coffee for breakfast, a Greek salad for lunch, some grilled fish or a hearty moussaka for dinner. Happily, I always found the food freshly prepared and easy on the wallet. Sure, the service could be slow, but hey, that’s very much the Georgioupolis vibe.
Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.

Georgioupolis Square.
One day, with about three quarters of my book consumed, I finally got up and took a walk. All week, in between pages, I’d been gazing out to sea where a gorgeous Greek fisherman’s chapel sits nestled on a tiny, sea-kissed islet. Thus I threw on my sandals and slowly made my way towards Agios Nikolaos Church.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
The whitewashed building, built in the mid 1930s, stands dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors. That’s the same St. Nick, don’t you know, who inspired the legend of Father Christmas. And what a sight it is, a lovely little structure seemingly floating in The Aegean Sea!

The rocky approach to Agios Nikolaos Church.
To access the church, one needs to negotiate a long, rocky walkway from the beach. It’s much tougher than it looks; you definitely need a good sense of balance. Looking back, I wish I’d changed from my sandals into trainers, as I nearly slipped on numerous occasions. Still, it was fun to pause along the way and watch crabs scurrying around between the various rock pools.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
Luckily it was well worth the effort. This, many say, is one of the iconic symbols of Crete. The kind of place that sends Instagram into overdrive. And yet, inside, it is surprisingly modest… bare even. Rather, its appeal lies in its location and sea views.
Agios Nikolaos Church.

Inside Agios Nikolaos Church.
Having lit a candle and left a donation, I spent some time gazing out at sea. Then turned my attention back to Georgioupolis, which appeared much further away than I’d anticipated. Indeed, I hadn’t realised just how far out the church actually is!

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
The next day I was on the beach, finishing off my book, when I heard a German couple talking about a nearby lake. Lake Kournas, they revealed, is Crete’s only freshwater lake. “So beautiful!” tutted the lady, applying sunscreen, as if the lake had committed some kind of crime.
Quite spontaneously, I decided to go and check the lake out. Initially, I’d planned to walk, but that would have been a 90-minute ordeal under the scorching son. In the end, a taxi made short work of the trip, the driver dropping me off outside a row of taverns in the hilltop village of Kournas.

Lake Kournas.
So I ducked inside one of the taverns and ordered an ice-cold beer, delivered to my balcony table. The view out over the lake was splendorous, so much so that I felt inspired to take a walk down to the lake.
Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.

Boating on Lake Kournas.
Down by the water’s edge, I came across a small pedal boat station. Prices were negligible, so I jumped in one and took it for a spin. Much like Georgioupolis, Kournas was free from crowds, with just me and a few other boats out on the lake. Hence it was a lovely, quiet, carefree hour doing a loop of the lake and admiring the surrounding hills.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
By the time my final day rolled around I had, at long last, finished my book. Feeling energised, I decided to jump on a bus and head out to the nearby city of Rethymno. Home to around 30.000 inhabitants, the “city” has some fantastic history that dates back to the Bronze Age. Indeed this is where the ancient Minoan civilisation developed port trade and minted their own coins.

The Cretan city of Rethymno.
On arrival I was taken aback by just how much of a ghost town Rethymno was. It was late morning and I was strolling through the handsome, Venetian-era old town.
On one pedestrianised street, in between the flower-laden balconies of several canary yellow houses, I stopped for coffee and juice at a cafe. And there I remained for an hour, just myself, the cafe owner and this groovy old local guy who felt no shame in staring at me the entire time.

Making friends in Rethymno.
Despite the intense heat, I made sure to drag myself up the hill (Paleokastro) for a visit to Rethymno Fortress. Built by the Venetians in the 1570s, those scoundrels the Ottomans later captured the place in 1646. Over the centuries it became a lavish citadel until most of the place got destroyed during World War II.
Rethymno Fortress, Crete.

Pretty Rethymno.
In truth, there wasn’t much to see among the ruins of the fortress. There is a small archaeological museum onsite but… yes… it was closed that morning. Nevertheless, the fortress’ lofty position makes for some fantastic views over the town and, of course, the Sea of Crete.

Rethymno Fortress.
Part of me wanted to launch myself from this tower viewpoint into the perfectly unspoilt deep blue water. Somehow, I resisted the temptation.

A delicious deep blue.
That last evening in Georgioupolis the weather turned, quite dramatically. Suddenly, as I was packing up my suitcase, the sound of fierce thunder rattled the walls and drew me out to the balcony. The sky was amazing, a sinister cauldron of blue, white and grey that soon bled into shades of black.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
Crete had given me exactly what I had come for, and plenty of extra delights to boot. In fact, I enjoyed the experience so much I decided to return a year later for another ten days in a new location. The full details of that trip, dear readers, come out in my next post.

Unwinding in Georgioupolis, Crete.
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68 Comments
We were in this very spot last year on a couple of day trips from Hania whilst on our mammoth Greece & islands trip throughout the summer. Michaela had been there in her previous life – even before 2011 – and found that although there’s a couple of new small hotels, it hasn’t been spoiled. The square is certainly still as charming as it was when you saw it. Type of traveller? I guess that’s for others to judge from the things we write about on the blog, but I’d like to think we’re Chameleon. Maybe with a dash of Curator and a touch of Epicurean (although not really the “best” restaurants, but certainly seeking out local specialities and willing to try anything). We also tottered out to that little chapel on the rocks…it’s still the same rickety walk as it was when you went.
Hey Phil, how cool that we have another shared location. And what a surprise I got when I saw you responding to this article. In my mind I was on a blogging break until Sunday, looks like I tripped myself up with my own post scheduling. A quartet of chameleons I guess we are, in part at least. That chapel is lovely and beautifully situated.
You ask about the type of traveller we are, perhaps several alternatively depending on where we are. But thinking of spending my holidays on a beach doesn’t come to mind either, or that would be to have time to write in the daytime in the shade and walk in the evening after the heat. But soon I would need a fortress or an old village to explore, find angles for photos and learn more about their past. Georgioupolis and its surroundings must be able to offer this.
Thanks for your thoughts, you make some good points. I agree that most of us are a hybrid of various types. I can count the number of purely sun-sea-sand type trips I’ve made over the last 25 years on one hand. But I know people back home who do only that every time there is the chance of a break. Thanks for reading.
I know them too! Have they even tried anything else? But everyone should be free in their own free time.
I’ve never been to Crete, Leighton, but I can see why people are drawn to its fine beaches, ancient treasures, dreamy villages, wonderful cuisine, and hospitable locals who hold their traditional culture in high regard.
And that’s a very good question – if I had to categorise myself as to what kind of a traveller I am, it would probably be a slow traveller with an approach to travel that emphasizes connection: to local people, cultures, food and music.
I’ve only been once to a typical resort holiday in Turkey where we stayed in a hotel with all the comforts of home and along the way, I nearly lost my mind! It was like being in a Groundhog Day movie! One of the things that annoy me most when I ask somebody about their all-inclusive resort holiday is when they respond to tell me that they ”love x destination so much”. I then proceed to ask what they saw or did only to hear that the pool was lovely and there was some great evening entertainment. I once had a friend who went to Morocco but didn’t know what a tagine was!
Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Ha, you’ve made me laugh Aiva, as so much of what you said rings true. People are funny creatures I think. I guess for some the idea of doing very little and having everything you need within ten steps is what travelling abroad is all about. Thanks for contributing to the thread!
The perfect place to chill! I could do exactly what you did, but for maybe a few days longer. Like you. I’m a mixture of all the types of travelers, and I must read Keith Richards book.
Hey Kellye, Keith’s book is a riot as you would expect. I have to say that these days I could also totally handle an extended period doing very little by a pool or a beach. Just to fully recharge after some hectic months.
Kindle is searching for the book now. If it’s as good as “I’m Ozzie”, I will enjoy it!
I’m not a natural Unwinder either. Even as a child I would get bored on beach holidays and beg for a castle visit or similar, until my mother pointed out that entry to such places wasn’t free so we couldn’t do it every day! I reckon I’m a Curator first and foremost with a large dash of Epicurean and Chameleon thrown in (no Adventurer unless you count hot air ballooning as adventurous??) Having said all that, there are times when unwinding is very appealing – usually in my case towards the end of a busy trip, to relax before the journey home. This looks a great spot for unwinding, not least because there are things to do when you get bored with doing very little! I would love to photograph that little chapel, take a boat out on that lake and enjoy the views of that deep blue sea from Rethymno Fortress. But heat being something I can’t really can’t deal with too well, I would be better going off season I think 🙂
PS I still need to catch up with your Siem Reap adventures!!
Thanks for your response Sarah, the subject of traveller types seems to have already sparked some debate. Hot air ballooning is fairly adventurous I’d say. I was supposed to leave a full week’s break between the end of my Koh Ker series and this one, but I made a mess of my scheduling and the post came out early. 😬
Surely, hot air ballooning counts as being an Adventurer!
My only visit to Greece was also to Crete in 2011. I remember because we were there at the time of Prince William’s wedding and I remember watching it on the television in the hotel. We also stayed in the north of the island but elsewhere. Great post.
Thanks Marion, it’s a country I think a lot of us would like to see a bit more of. Especially some of the more authentic regions… ah, one of these years.
Crete brings back memories of our time there ..makes me want to return. Very historic area and wonderful beaches .. so much to see and do .
Anita
It seems a lot of WordPress bloggers have been to Crete. Glad you enjoyed your time there too, thanks for dropping in Anita.
Glad you resurrected your memories and photos from your 2011 trip to Crete, Leighton, as reading about the different traveler types was interesting – hadn’t known about that before. Though you needed a break from your hectic job in Amsterdam, you certainly packed a lot in those ten days – thanks for taking us to the offshore chapel, the lake, and fortress. When I escaped chilly Geneva for Crete way back for Christmas of 1974, I stayed in Agia Galini – you make me wonder how much that tiny village has changed!
Thank you Annie, it was fun to go back and write this one up after so much Cambodia material. Crete in 1974! How I would love a few glimpses of the island back in those days. I had just Googled Agia Galini, it looks lovely, and I’m guessing much expanded.
You sure did a lot for a relaxing holiday. Great that you do this as helps me pick and choose without having to research it myself. Thanks
I think even on a trip where I’m lying around in the sun I will always find some things to see and do. Just the way I’m wired, I guess. Thanks for checking in, Gary.
A lovely post, brings back some good memories of Greek travels for me. I backpacked solo with a small child for a Summer in the Sporades islands and then a few years later, Mr THL and I eloped and then buggered off to Parga on the mainland until the dust settled on that! I’ve not been to Crete, although your post would sell it to me! Very interesting about the traveller types, I’ve no idea where I’d sit on there. Low key adventurer with a dash of chameleon, maybe?
Ha ha love it Helen, how long did it take for the dust to settle? I’m loving all the reactions to traveller types, it gets you thinking I guess.
Wow how beautiful! I’ve never been to Crete. Those beaches look like the perfect place for a break. I am the Chameleon out of all those types of travelers. I love to see and do it all. I think Jon wishes I was more of an Unwinder ha!
Ah, poor old long-suffering Jon! 😉 I’m glad Crete appeals Lyssy, I can’t see myself going back for a third time but you never know.
We only had a brief visit to Crete during the Christmas break from teaching in 2002 while in Bratislava. This is a part of the island we missed but it definitely looks familiar. And Crete was a great place to relax. I was hoping for some food pictures after you mentioned Epicurean but I’m really more of a Curator myself. Thanks for the laid back photos but that rocky walkway looks treacherous.
Ah yes, I remember now that you did a bit of Crete that winter. It’s a bit criminal that I didn’t photograph any of those Georgioupolis dishes, guess I was waaaaaay too chilled out.
A stunning place to unwind Leighton. J.S.D.N. (Just sitting’ doin’ nuthin’) can always be good for the soul. Not one for sitting on beaches ( i burn, never tan), I am always good to find a shady place to sit and watch the waves roll in. The Agios Nikolaos Church is gorgeous and well worth the rocky walk. Greece is so beautiful, I often wonder why we have only been there once. Thanks for sharing. Allan
Cheers Allan, I feel lucky that I’ve always been a tanner, dating all the way back to my Florida holidays as a kid. I would like to think that my future travels could include a bit more of Greece.
I’m definitely not an Unwinder either, though I could see myself relaxing for a little while with beautiful scenery like this. I’d say I’m mostly an Adventurer and Curator. But I suppose it’s always good to mix it up a little.
Hey Diana, I figured you wouldn’t be much of an unwinder. The subject of one’s travel type has really piqued people’s interest, which is cool and unexpected. I think you’re right, as long as there’s some mixing going on, we’re probably getting the most out of our adventures.
Yes, I was enjoying reading the other comments as well. Seems like we have all types here! It’s nice though… it means there’s a little something for everyone to see and do no matter where they are!
We went to Crete once and were unfortunate with the weather. Since reading your article I hope I can visit again. Lovely read Leighton. x
Ah, Crete in the rain and wind would be a whole other proposition I’m guessing. Maybe you’ll get to right those wrongs with a return visit someday.
wow we arent in cambodia anymore! even on a trip like this where you (allegedly) didnt do anything you manage to produce an excellent article as always. what type of traveller am I? a vicarious one.
Ah, glad you have enjoyed the change of scenery, Stan. It was high time I think! I’ve been a vicarious traveller at times too, but for the most part it doesn’t sit well with me.
Beautiful pictures Leighton. Seems you found an idyllic place to unwind and regroup. Interesting about the five kinds of travelers…I would say I probably fall more under the Curator type. I’m definitely not a thrill seeker, and not a foodie enough for the epicurean type, and I rarely just chill out when on vacation because there is too much I want to see and do. I think though I may make an exception and chill out on the beach in Crete.
There’s a time and a place for everything I guess, is what seems to be coming out of this thread. Glad Crete could inspire you to just say “ah **** it” and take a load off, Meg. I also had a feeling you might be a curator 😉
As you may have guessed we’re not Unwinders either. I would say adventurer, curator and chameleon mix. I had to laugh that street cats were protecting the church!! If looking to unwind though Georgioupolis looks like a great spot for it. Maggie
Thanks Maggie, if I ever go back I’ll buy tin of cat food and give that church another go.
This seems like such a relaxing and beautiful area full of history and sunshine!
Thanks for visiting Crete, Allie!
Great article, Leighton! Greek communities in the Aegean have many, picturesque little chapels, but the one on the islet is in a most unusual location. I see why you were drawn to it. I take it that tides there must not amount to much. A book and a beach sounds like a perfect getaway. Looking forward to the next part.
You’re right, the tide wasn’t much to shout about there, at least that’s how I remember it. Thanks for dropping by, John.
I enjoyed reading this post and learning about Crete. We’ll be visiting several Greek Isles next month, unfortunately not Crete though. I’m looking forward to reading your upcoming posts on Greece.
Thanks, Tricia. Greek island hopping, eh? Which ones are you taking in?
We’re actually taking a cruise, which is the exact opposite of our travel style, in which we always do our own bookings, and avoid tours like the plague. But we have lots of friends who are cruise fans, so we’re giving it a try. We’ll be going to Corfu, Santorini and Mykonos.
I can’t imagine that would be a bad experience. You’re going for three heavyweight islands there, Tricia. I’m sure you’ll have the best time. I wouldn’t say never to a cruise… one day perhaps.
It seems like a good way to cover a lot of territory in a short period of time; however, we also want to visit, and linger on some of the smaller, less popular islands. Oh, and I forgot to mention that the fisherman’s chapel looks so inviting!
Another lovely throwback, this time from the earlier years! Never been to Crete, but it certainly looks like the ultimate place to chill out and do nothing, especially for 10 days! The Agios Nikolaos Church really caught my eye, as its rustic tiled floor and views of the blue sea are really appealing. I find it difficult for myself to go on vacation and do little, as I get the thrill of a packed schedule of sightseeing as much as I can (given that time’s limited with vacation hours and what not). As I get older, though, I’m finding that I’m getting into the groove of booking trips with a bit of sightseeing and relaxation in the mix! Ergo, that means I’m a blend of the Epicurean and the Chameleon types of travelers!
Another Epicurean-Chameleon fusion eh? It makes perfect sense when one is open to travelling far and wide and absorbing pretty much everything a place has to offer. Thanks for your comment Rebecca.
I don’t think we’re “The Unwinders” … but in a place like Crete this might just change 😉. The beach looks like the ideal place to unwind, but the same can be said about the Georgioupolis Square. And love the little church – what a fantastic location! Why do I suddenly feel in an instant holiday mood … oh, it’s that beautiful blue sea of course! Great post Leighton!
Hey Corna, thank you so much. I think you hit the nail on the head that an experience like this feels like “a holiday” rather than “travelling”. Which isn’t always a bad thing. Thanks for unwinding in Crete with me!
Certainly identify with being a curator chamelion…wherever you open your eyes you can find beauty!
You just might be right Geoff. Thanks for reading and for joining the thread.
Lovely photos! I’m an unwinder most of the time, but I like adventures, too. It depends on the location, though. If I travel to a place known for its nature, I find myself exploring it and having adventures. If it’s a historical place, I want to sit at a cafe where I can observe people and its architecture while sipping my coffee.
Hey Bahanur, thanks for reading and joining the discussion. Sipping coffee and watching the world go by (and stand still) is one of my favourite things in the world. It’s good to meet another traveller type hybrid.
I’m more of The Chameleon with a side of The Curator and sometimes The Adventurer. Glad to hear that you were able to experience The Undwinder side of travelling and spend some quality time relaxing and just going with the flow. Your pictures look so beautiful.
Thanks Linda. There is definitely a time and a place for everything. In fact, I think I could do a similar “unwinding” break right now, as we’ve been so busy recently building up our online business. I saw that you commented on The Black Lady Temple the other day, but when I clicked on the comment it had disappeared. There are too many WordPress gremlins these days.
Best of luck with your online business. That’s very exciting. And yah, I’ve been having similar issues with WP. I also noticed that the spacing between some of my photos has disappeared, which is super annoying.
Looks idyllic – I love the little church
Thanks for dropping by Hannah.
A nice respite. I don’t do that often either. I totally relate to a combination of Curator, Epicurean, and at times Chameleon. Loved that little white church out on the sea.
It seems most of us travelling bloggers are a healthy mix. Thanks for checking out Georgioupolis, Ruth.
I would say that I am a mix of the Epicurean and Curator predominantly with elements of a Chameleon. Occasionally and for a brief spell of time I turn into an Unwinder. The tiny white church in the middle of the sea, gorgeous! Did you find Crete manageable without a car?
Hey Amelie, thanks for your considered contribution to the thread. The church is such a lovely sight there, seemingly nestled in the sea. I think if one wanted to go exploring around the region, a set of wheels would be really handy. As it turned out, I managed my two field trips with a taxi and local bus respectively. 🚕 🚌
Stunning place, it’s now on my unwritten list of places to go to. Truth to be said I’ve been wanting to visit Crete now for a few years, specially after exploring some of the Canarian islands. There is a certain chilling vibe when you stay on an island, and this is definitely one rich in history, culinary traditions and beautiful landscapes from what you write. I found extremely curious the name for the five types of different travellers, I am definitely the one looking for all the food too!
Thanks for stopping by, I’m sure you’d have a blast visiting Crete. Food is one of the great joys of travel, eh?