The Treasures & Controversies of Chora Church

The Treasures & Controversies of Chora Church, Istanbul.

October 2020.

Forgive me if I am repeating myself, but Istanbul truly is a powerhouse of architecture and art. Just days into our stay, we had already seen some of the city’s artistic highlights through our visits to Süleymaniye Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar. Later, we would take in equally spectacular visual delights at Hagia Sophia, Dolmabahçe Palace and Theodosius Cistern.

As amazing as all of the aforementioned sights undoubtedly are, there is something particularly pleasing about uncovering an underrated gem.

I had Sladja to thank for finding out about Chora Church during her online research. Imagine our delight when she discovered that Istanbul is home to one the world’s oldest and most beautiful Greek Orthodox Byzantine churches. Except it wasn’t actually a church anymore, but rather a mosque. More on that later.

Photo courtesy of Gryffindor.

Moreover, Sladja excitedly told me how the structure houses some of the world’s most impressive and best-preserved 14th century mosaics and frescoes. So one morning we headed out to the leafy neighbourhood of Edirnekapı in the city’s Fatih district.

Following a Google Maps walking route, we soon found ourselves closing in on the church as we made our way down Kariye Bostani Street. It’s a peaceful residential road with wooden houses, fluttering Turkish flags and local pensioners hanging out their windows watching the world go by.

The Treasures & Controversies of Chora Church.

The church/mosque we were about to see sprang up in the 4th century. Commissioned by Constantine the Great (who had recently decriminalised Christianity), its official name roughly translates as Church of the Holy Redeemer in the Fields. However, most people called it Chora, an old Greek word meaning countryside or suburb. A reference to the fact that it stood outside Constantinople’s city walls. 

Later, in the 5th century, the church found itself incorporated into the city’s walled defences. A major rebuild took place in the late 1070s, overseen by Maria of Bulgaria, mother-in-law of the Byzantine Emperor Alexios I Komnenos. There was another expansion in the early 14th century, which is when today’s much-celebrated mosaics and frescoes arrived.

By 1500 the church was still standing, despite the huge damage sustained by the city during the Siege of Constantinople. Eventually, Sultan Bayezid II ordered his Grand Vizier Hadim Ali Pasha to convert The Chora into a mosque. They renamed it Kariye Mosque, Kariye being the Turkish word for Chora. And so it remained as a mosque until 1945 when the Turkish government transformed the old structure into a museum. 

Kariye Mosque.

We had been full of anticipation in the approach to The Chora’s majestic facade that morning. Until…. oh rats, it was our old nemesis Captain Scaffolding. Annoying to say the least. However, this was evidence of yet another twist in the building’s eventful history. 

In August 2020, just a few months before we arrived in Istanbul, the Turkish Council of State (acting on behalf of President Erdogan) announced that The Chora would be reconverted into a mosque. The decision was roundly condemned across the world. Not least from the Greek Foreign Ministry and prominent Orthodox and Protestant Christians. 

Pondering this ancient history and contemporary politics, we found ourselves distracted by the sight of a large dog napping right outside the entrance. I mean, mosque. With a green chip on one of his ears, he was clearly a street dog. Gentle and immediately loveable, but a little rough around the edges. “His name is Benek” came a nearby voice, as I bent down to give him a stroke.

The Treasures & Controversies of Chora Church.

The man who had spoken sauntered over with a warm, friendly smile. “Benek is the dog of The Chora” he chuckled. “Kind of like a symbol, a charm”. According to the man, a local tour guide, the dog always hung out  around the church where locals and foreign visitors alike were happy to pet and feed him. In fact, Benek had become so popular the endearing canine now had his own Instagram and Facebook accounts.

“Are you here to see our amazing Chora?” the man asked. When I confirmed that we were, he insisted on taking us inside for a guided tour. “This is free Leighton, just between friends” he reassured us, noticing our wary glances. Thus the three of us entered and within seconds came face to face with some of The Chora’s stunning art.

How I wish I could remember our guide’s name, as he truly deserves a proper thank you. Passionate and conscientious, he led us around the two chambers that remained open to the public. Luckily, they were absolutely packed with The Chora’s artistic treasures.

An Underrated Istanbul Gem.

Unfortunately, the names of the incredible artists who made The Chora’s exceptional mosaics and frescoes remain unknown. What we do know though, is that a powerful Byzantine statesman by the name of Theodore Metochites led the project.

Some historians claim Metochites completely devoted his life to the church’s decoration between 1315 and 1321. And was so proud of what they achieved that he lived the final years of his life inside The Chora as a monk.

Fittingly, one mosaic depicts Metochites himself. He kneels down in front of Jesus Christ presenting a model of the newly renovated church as a show of love. I can’t say Jesus looks all that impressed.

Moving from mosaic to mosaic, from fresco to fresco, we were wowed by the beauty and impressive preservation of the 720 year old artworks. With a low chuckle our guide explained how, after its first conversion to a mosque, Muslim worshippers would come to pray with the Christian images surrounding them in full view. Later, of course, local authorities covered them up with layers of plaster.

The Treasures & Controversies of Chora Church.

One of the most breathtaking mosaics depicts the Koimesis, also known as The Dormition of the Virgin. This is basically the scene in which Mary falls asleep for the final time before going up to heaven. In the image Jesus sits solemnly watching his mother. An infant cradled in his arms, which is apparently supposed to represent Mary’s soul.

You can’t escape Mary in Chora Church, she is absolutely everywhere.

Indeed this is commented upon by the American travel writer Paul Theroux. Writing about his experience visiting the church in his book The Great Railway Bazaar, he describes the mosaics and frescoes as “wonderfully supple and human”. Furthermore, he insists that “The virgin in one fresco looks exactly like Virginia Woolf!”

Unsure as to which fresco Theroux had been referring to, Sladja and I could only smile and speculate.

Another fine mosaic caused ripples of awe and then a wave of disappointment in the space of seconds. On the one hand it is a spectacularly preserved piece where the seemingly millions of tiny tiles appear almost as delicate paintbrush strokes. And then I learn that the piece presents Mary and Joseph enrolling for taxation before the Roman aristocrat Governor Quirinius. Mm, what would Virginia Woolf have made of it all?

Kariye Mosque.

Gazing up at one of six magnificent domes, I couldn’t help but wonder what the future held for The Chora. Now that it was going to be a mosque again, what would happen to the mosaics and frescos?

Back outside in the October sunshine we returned our attention to Benek, who hadn’t moved an inch. Here was another Chora treasure I figured, as he rolled onto his back in order to receive a tummy rub from our guide.

Nearly three years on from our visit, I am saddened to see that Benek’s Instagram account is now defunct. Similarly, his Facebook account is no longer available. As far as I could tell he was an older dog, so I guess the signs aren’t good.

On Friday 30 October 2020, just three weeks after our visit, The Chora held Muslim prayers for the first time in 72 years. At the time of writing the building remains closed to the public as it continues its renovation project in preparation for its new chapter as a modern mosque. As controversial as the reconversion is for many, I am at least encouraged to read that the frescoes and mosaics are set to remain. From what I understand, fitted screens will be lowered over the Christian images during Muslim prayers.

Like this? Take a look at my series of articles on Istanbul.

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