Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

September 2020.

Posted just over a month ago, readers may recall my article about the marvellous Basilica Cistern. One of Istanbul’s most absorbing historic sights, the cistern is just one of 70 giant underground reservoirs built by the city’s ancient Byzantine rulers in order to supply water to the palaces and its people.

Basilica Cistern.

We loved our tour of the cistern. In fact, it left us hungry for similar sights in the Turkish capital. As it turned out, we were in luck. A bit of online research soon brought our attention to Theodosius Cistern, a site that had us excited for two reasons. 1: although smaller, it is actually older than Basilica Cistern. 2: Several reviews described it as “quiet” and somewhat “under the radar”. Music to our ears. 

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

We arrived at Theodosius Cistern one afternoon to find a surprisingly modern structure. A whole different kettle of fish to The Basilica Cistern’s low-key brick and tile entrance.

Indeed the building opened as recently as 2018 to provide access to the newly restored cistern. Predominantly glass and steel on the outside, with dark wooden furnishings on the inside, the structure was erected by the renowned Turkish architect Cafer Bozkurt.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Inside there wasn’t a soul to be seen, except for the man who greeted us and took payment for the tickets. We paid 300 Lira each, that’s around $11.50 per person. Perhaps a little pricy, but understandable considering the attraction had only been open for a few years after a painstaking eight year renovation.

Descending a long wooden staircase, we felt the air rapidly cool and dampen and then… wow!!! … I don’t think we’d been at all prepared for the scene that awaited us. Firstly, it is a work of art, a dazzler for the eyeballs. A modern interpretation of the original space, certainly, but tastefully done I would say. They hadn’t, for example, gone for the dancing jellyfish approach of Basilica Cistern’s modern reboot.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Secondly, we had the entire chamber to ourselves. Just us and a near-perfect stillness and silence as we made our way through the forest of stone columns, home to over 1600 years of history.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

The Roman Emperor Theodosius II oversaw the cistern’s construction, which took place between 428 and 443. For the history of the city’s cisterns and how they worked, see my original article on Basilica Cistern. 

Exploring Istanbul.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Like all of the old cisterns of Constantinople, Theodosius eventually fell into disrepair before being altogether abandoned. Swallowed up by the centuries, in 1904 it disappeared entirely when a wealthy family built a mansion over the top of it.

One of the cistern’s gloriously flaky walls.

Later, in the 1950s, that same structure became a city council building. It was only rediscovered when local authorities demolished the old house in 2010, consequently stumbling upon the cistern’s remains.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Such is the magnitude of this history and the dramatic feel of the tightly-packed columns, Sladja and I didn’t realise what a deceptively small space the cistern is. Made of red brick and lined with hydraulic mortar, it covers an area of just 25 by 45 metres.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Moreover, there are just four rows of nine meter high columns in total. That’s 32 columns topped with Corinthian capitals that support the vaulted brick ceiling. A far cry then from the all-consuming jungle it felt like we were walking through that afternoon.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

A perfect moment of peace in the Turkish capital.

As in Basilica Cistern, glass panels and a shallow pool of water separated us from the columns. The presence of coins in the water however, proved noticeably absent. As a result, the pool is perfectly clear, which makes for some pristine reflections in the water.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Before long Sladja and I had completed several loops of the cistern. And yet, mesmerised, we hung around for a bit listening to the occasional drips that could easily serve as a Calm soundscape.

And then, suddenly, I spied a couple coming down the stairs. Our private date with Theodosius Cistern was over. A good time, we guessed, to saunter over to the staircase and make our way back up to Istanbul and the intense September sunshine.

Stillness and Silence at Theodosius Cistern.

Like this? Take a look at my series of articles on Istanbul.

I’ve been living, working and traveling all over the world since 2001. So why not check out my huge library of travel reports from over 30 countries.