Fire Temple & Burning Mountain in Baku.

Fire Temple & Burning Mountain in Baku.

December 2024.

*Recently I collaborated with Bag Baku, one of Azerbaijan’s leading tour companies. The project was to experience some of Azerbaijan’s greatest natural, historical and cultural treasures before writing up honest, detailed accounts of my experiences. Thanks to Bag Baku co-founder Sabina Gasimova for the opportunity* 

It had certainly been a packed day. We’d started bright and breezy with a visit to the Mud Volcano Tourism Complex, before driving out to a mountaintop in the Gobustan desert to see a cluster of remote mud volcanoes.

Next came the fabulous Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve, where we came face to face with Azerbaijan’s ancient petroglyphs and rock carvings. Some of which were created over forty thousand years ago!

Now it was late afternoon and the day’s light had already started to fade. Emin and Rajab had returned us to Baku, where we were pulling up outside the marvellous Fire Temple. Heaven knows how many temples I’ve seen during my travels over the years. However, it is safe to say that I had never seen a temple quite like this one.

Fire Temple & Burning Mountain in Baku.

Fire is an important aspect of Azerbaijan’s natural history and cultural identity. In fact, historians, patriots and tourism companies alike often refer to their country as The Land of Fire. Some of this is down to its natural gas phenomena, an economic blessing for the government and its people.

But part of this nickname refers to ancient religious practices. And that’s where the Fire Temple comes in. Known in Azerbaijani as Ateshgah, this walled complex sprang up in the 17th century on the site of a natural gas vent. A group of Zoroastrians built the joint for their god Ahura Mazda, the deity of an ancient Persian religion called Zoroastrianism. Groovy. 

In Zoroastrianism fire symbolises purity, truth and wisdom, in addition to being a divine presence. Basically they saw fire as a gift from god, putting it right at the heart of their prayers and rituals.

Indeed they kept an eternal flame burning within the complex at all times, a practice that ensured god always remained by their side.

The compound is fairly small and compact with a central courtyard surrounded by rooms once used by resident monks. As word of the temple grew throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, pilgrims also began arriving, some of whom stayed in any available lodgings. Today these rooms house exhibits on the temple’s history.

Ateshgah of Baku.

These stone cells are beautiful in their simplicity and highly atmospheric, giving off a strong feeling of what it must have been like to live here in olden times and devote one’s life to the great fire god.

Throughout the 18th century the temple received growing attention from Indian traders and travellers. Also regarding fire as a purifying force, those who came to live at the temple began adding Hindu and Sikh influences to the complex. Thus the temple gradually became a convergence of Zoroastrian and Indian religious practices.

Moreover, one can spot inscription stones above several doorways written in Persian, Hindu and Sikh.

Rajab helped to translate some of the quotes. “I salute Lord Ganesha and the holy fire!” states one segment. “Fires stand in line!” exclaims another, “blessed is the new year!”

Fire Temple & Burning Mountain in Baku.

In one room we saw an exhibit of traditional clothing worn at the temple during prayer ceremonies. As the colour of purity, everyone would dress in white in order to showcase their cleanliness and spiritual readiness. Furthermore, it was cool to see some old metallic pots and ladles used for the temple’s many smaller fires. How precious that these items have survived the centuries.

Above a doorway in the same exhibit, we spotted the curious Faravahar, a winged figure that is Zoroastrianism’s most recognised symbol. According to experts, its wings and feathers represent the religion’s guiding principles, namely good faith (humata), good words (hukhta) and good acts (hvarhsta).

The man’s hand reaches forward, a symbol of progress and righteousness, while in his other hand he bears a ring, supposedly a show of loyalty and eternity. 

A collection of ancient rock carvings, discovered in and around the temple, also stand on display. Yes, there were the expected images of bulls, horses and cows. But my pick of the bunch was this unusual depiction of an armoured warrior or knight. Possibly a protector of the temple and its sacred fires, suggested Rajab.

It was actually Azerbaijan’s discovery and development of large-scale petroleum that brought about the Fire Temple’s demise. With widespread drilling unfolding all around it, the natural gas seepage dried up, extinguishing the compound’s eternal flames.

Drill, Baby Drill!

As a result, its residents reluctantly began to leave and by the early 20th century it had fallen into disuse. Later, in the Soviet era, authorities recognised the site for its historic and cultural importance. And so a restoration project followed, after which the temple reopened as a museum in 1975.

The highlight of our visit was definitely saved for last as we passed through the beautifully restored main altar with its large fire. The square, stone structure has an open-air design, allowing people to view its dancing flames from all sides.

Happily, the temple’s most significant fire is once again eternal, though it is now artificially maintained.

It was a special moment as we stood there that evening, just the two of us. Imagining all the folk from across the 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th (and now 21st) centuries who, just like us, had held their hands out towards the wall of heat.

Fire Temple & Burning Mountain in Baku.

Sladja and I were absolutely starving. To maximise time, Rajab explained that dinner would be taken right next door to the Fire Temple in a large joint called Ateshgah Restaurant.

I have to admit that this immediately had alarm bells ringing for me. A restaurant right next to the Fire Temple and across from a touristy row of souvenir stores and craft workshops? Mm.

Still, we had no complaints about the vibe and decor as we entered. Everything was decked out in traditional Azerbaijani furnishings – with hanging wall carpets, stained glass windows and giant multilayered chandeliers.

Placing our order, I decided to have a quick flip through the restaurant’s online reviews. People’s reactions were all over the place; some delighted, some satisfied and some with scathing one star reviews. “Tourist trap” appeared in several entries. Ugh.

Hence it was with low expectations that we waited for our dishes to arrive. Happily though, we could have little cause for complaint. First we tried a plate of tasty Qutab, a traditional Azerbaijani stuffed flatbread. Made with thinly rolled dough and folded over various fillings, they are cooked on a griddle. Ours came loaded with cheese and a mix of fresh herbs and greens.

Ateshgah Restaurant.

However, it was our main that stole the show. Served beneath a small pot of fire (genius!), Shah Pilaf is Azerbaijan’s most revered national dish. At first glance it looks like it could be a standard pie, one that perhaps has beef and onion or say chicken and mushroom inside.

Cut it open though and you are met by a quite delicious (and unlikely) mix of ingredients. The rice is saffron-infused, fluffy and moist. Digging around, we came upon delicious chunks of tender lamb, sticky apricots and flavourful chestnuts. While I am sure this probably isn’t the very best pilaf Baku has to offer, we did really enjoy it.

With full and happy stomachs we drove off to the last site of the day. We arrived at Burning Mountain (Yanar Dagh) just half an hour before closing time. Our leisurely pace throughout the day had finally caught up with us, while Baku’s insane evening traffic also played its part.

Burning Mountain is a quite incredible natural gas fire that’s been burning continuously for centuries. Fuelled by underground gas seepages, its flittering flames are visible around the clock. No surprise then that many historians believe this site was a huge inspiration for the Zoroastrian fire worshippers who established the Fire Temple.

Burning Mountain.

There is a legend that says a shepherd accidentally set the mountain alight for the first time, resulting in the belief that a miracle had occurred. If that’s the case, what a wondrous (and terrifying!) moment that must have been for him and any fellow witnesses.

Although we don’t know exactly when the mountain started burning, the famed Venetian traveller Marco Polo made a written note of having seen it back in the 13th century. Indeed he talked excitedly of “a mysterious fire that burned continuously without wood or coal, fuelled by the land itself”.

In those last minutes before closing time Sladja and I had the burning mountain to ourselves. First we simply stood for a while, hypnotised by the flames. Then took the opportunity to warm our hands in the increasingly icy December air. It felt positively soothing, both for the hands and the soul.

What a day it had been experiencing four of Azerbaijan’s distinct cultural gems. And to think this was only the start of our two-week adventure!

*This experience was part of Bag Baku’s private full day tour of the Gobustan Mud Volcanoes, Gobustan petroglyphs, Fire Temple and Burning Mountain*. 

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