Travel Report: Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

May 2018.

Following my individual reports on Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum, it’s time to wrap up the best of the rest with my Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

I’ll never forget my arrival in HCM. It was absolutely belting down with rain. In fact, the streets had been temporarily transformed into urban rivers. One of the worst affected was Bui Vien Street, the city’s main backpacker district. My hotel was in a pedestrianised alley that ran off the street, which meant my taxi driver couldn’t take me all the way.

Thus I had to jump out of the taxi and make my way to the hotel on foot. It took just a few minutes, but I was absolutely soaked by the time I tumbled through the front door into reception. I really liked that alleyway, known locally as Hem 84, as it proved surprisingly quiet. Despite the fact that it runs directly off the hustle and bustle of Bui Vien Street.

Bui Vien itself had everything going on. From bars, restaurants, cafes and stores to guesthouses, pharmacies, banks, money exchange offices, massage parlours and cinemas. And yet, it never felt quite as overwhelming as say Khaosan Road in Bangkok or Beer Street in Siem Reap.

Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

It was nice to have such a huge range of restaurants on my doorstep. Over the course of my stay I had Italian, Lebanese and Indian. For dirt-cheap local cuisine, I stayed loyal to a restaurant called Phuong Cafe. They did a huge range of dishes, including meat and rice combos, pho, noodles, barbecue and spring rolls.

The staff was no-nonsense and didn’t bother with English, but that was no problem thanks to the picture menu. Most plates went for just a dollar or two, which made it easy to order up a feast. While researching this article I’ve seen how COVID has all but decimated Bui Vien Street. Unfortunately, Phuong Cafe was just one of many casualties and is now permanently closed down.

My favourite morning joint, Bookworm’s Coffee, was just off Bui Vien Street. Here I could get a cup of Yorkshire Tea (!) and ballpark renditions of an English/Scottish/Irish/American breakfast. The owners were famously charmless, as you can perhaps see for yourself, below. Nevertheless, it was a haven sorts for a traveler like me that needed something familiar in the morning.

It certainly wasn’t fine dining at Bookworm’s Coffee. But the price was right and they had lots of little comforts, such as Heinz Ketchup and vinegar for my cheese-topped eggs on toast with sausages and baked beans. Sadly, it seems the place has really gone downhill in recent years. Just a glance at their recent TripAdvisor reviews makes for some grim reading.

Bookworm’s Coffee.

Had I been so inclined, I could’ve written a separate article about the food. But I didn’t quite have the photos, hence I will settle on sharing one of my favourite dinner spots. The Secret Garden Restaurant on Pasteur Street has a wonderful ambience, a rooftop garden joint with Buddhist art, wood furnishings and intimate lighting.

Here, one can get some of the best, competitively-priced Vietnamese home cooking in the city For my main. I went for the outstanding braised pork with egg and gravy. Tangy and sweet, the soup was to die for, especially when you pour your bowl of white rice in and let it all soak.

Happy to hang around that night and enjoy the traditional Buddhist music, I also went for a chocolate latte and a slice of red bean cheesecake. Pleasingly, I see The Secret Garden is still going, though online reviews are patchy.

As I have hinted at in previous articles, Ho Chi Minh can be a difficult city to love. Its chaotic traffic scene is infuriating, while certain neighbourhoods are just too crowded and polluted. Generally, large chunks of the city lack character.

However, there are several delightful oases if one knows where to look. Take Tao Dan Park, for example, one of the city’s largest and most attractive green spaces. With thousands of trees, several ponds and an active bird community, the park provides a much-needed break from all the concrete and vehicle fumes.

Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

In the mornings the park is awash with HCM’s elderly community. This is where they come to dance, practice tai chi, play badminton and walk around chatting with their caged birds. When I swung by it was mid-afternoon and virtually deserted. Just a few people here and there enjoying the solitude on benches. One woman reading a newspaper, another sittin’ doin’ nothin’.

By another bench I got chatting to Tung, who told me he was a Vietnam War veteran. Softly spoken and kind-eyed, Tung offered his services as a guide. “I know this city like the back of hand” he told me somewhat sadly.

I’ve met countless scammers over the years during my various travels around the world. But it was my gut feeling that Tung was a good guy. With my schedule for the day already in place, I had to pass him up on his offer. I often wonder what kind of tour he’d have given me and what I might have learned. A bit of a HCM regret.

Before exiting the park, I checked out a few curiosities. In one corner, I found a modern sculpture garden showcasing the talents of several local artists. There was also a replica of Po Nagar, an ancient Cham Temple tower located in the Vietnamese province of Kauthara.

Tao Dan Park.

Another peaceful spot is the lovely 100-meter long Book Street (Nguyen Van Binh). Stretching from Hai Ba Trung street to Notre Dame Cathedral, the road is home to bookstores, cafes and quirky arts and crafts stores.

I was perhaps expecting to see plenty of English language titles. But actually the shops here cater largely to the domestic market. So for me the visit was all about soaking up the atmosphere rather than browsing.

There are several book exchanges on the road, in addition to the cosy Book Bus. You can find it parked next to a cutesy bus stop fitted with wooden benches and potted plants. It’s a highly Instagrammable spot that’s particularly popular with selfie-taking teens.

Eventually, I took a load off at Book Street’s main cafe, the unimaginatively named Book Cafe. Thankfully the coffee doesn’t disappoint, though this is definitely one of HCM’s priciest spots for a latte and a muffin.

Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

Just a minute or so from the cafe on foot, one cannot miss Saigon Central Post Office. One of Ho Chi Minh’s most beautiful buildings, it dates back to the city’s French colonial days.

It was designed by the renowned French architect Marie-Alfred Foulhoux, who melded a mix of influences, including classic French, Neo-baroque, Renaissance and Gothic. Personally, I love its canary yellow facade and the green shutters on the windows.

Completed in 1891, the building was Foulhoux’s final work. He died the following year after “a brief illness” aged just 52. Amazingly, the structure still operates as the city’s main post office! And yes, you can just wander in for a look at the gorgeous interior.

The post office counters are at the back, set in front of a huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh. The rest of the hall is dominated by a giant souvenir counter. They sell postcards, stamps, fancy stationery and kitschy Ho Chi Minh and Vietnam souvenirs.

Look out for the lovely vaulted ceiling and original floor tiles. You’ll also see some stunning 19th century wooden phone booths that are still operational!

Above them sits a pair of handsome, handprinted maps of Vietnam. One depicts the city of Saigon and its surrounding countryside circa 1892. The other, pictured above, shows the postal route between southern Vietnam and Cambodia.

Saigon Central Post Office.

I couldn’t move on from Saigon Central Post Office without mentioning the incredible life’s work of Mr. Duong Van Ngo. This amazing man worked at the post office in various capacities for over 42 years. He sorted mail, worked at the counter and made deliveries. He later learned both French and English in order to deal with foreign correspondence.

Photo courtesy of Dang Tung Duong.

In 1990 he had the chance to retire. But instead, Mr Ngo dedicated himself to being a public letter writer. And so he continued to work in the office composing letters for people who couldn’t write. As his fame grew, people simply wanted to have a letter written by the great Duong Van Ngo. Sadly, the post office forced him to retire in 2021. He is now 90 years old. 

Photo courtesy of Jean-Etienne Minh-Duy Poirrier.

As I’ve stated before, it’s worth coming to Ho Chi Minh simply to see their unmissable Vietnam War sights. Having dove deep into this history with my visits to Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum, I was keen to add another key spot. And so I paid a visit to the understated but highly significant Cha Tam Church (St Francis Xavier Parish Church).

Dating back to 1902, this gothic style church sprang up to serve the Catholic parishioners of HCM’s Chinese community. Cha Tam is the Vietnamese name of Pierre d’Assou, the Macau-born priest who funded the church’s construction and subsequently became its first vicar. Fittingly, you can find the man’s gravestone right outside the front door.

Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

A further curiosity, just in front of the gravestone, is this memorial to 117 Vietnamese Martyrs. It refers to the individuals canonised by Pope John Paul II on June the 19th 1988.

Cha Tam’s juiciest bit of history lies inside, where a plaque on one of the pews marks the events of November the 1st and 2nd, 1963. On the 1st, President Ngo Dinh Diem fled Independence Palace when he got wind of the military coup underway led by General Duong Van Minh.

As the story goes, Diem and his brother Nhu escaped to a house near the church. The next morning they left the building to go and pray at the church, but were discovered by Minh’s soldiers. The soldiers assassinated both of them in the back of a tank en route to the Vietnamese Joint General Staff Headquarters.

With such history, I was expecting the church to be busier. But it was eerily quiet and indeed the only person I saw was a woman sleeping under a tree next to her bicycle loaded with cleaning materials. The church is free to enter but keeps odd hours, so make sure to time your visit between 07:00-12:00, 14:00-16:00 and 19:00-21:00.

Cha Tam Church.

Visit any Vietnamese city and there’s going to be a big ol’ market to check out. Ho Chi Minh’s grandest collection of stalls lives at Ben Thanh Market, built in 1859. Today’s complex is a rebuilt version of the original market, which was destroyed in a fire in 1870.

As an Asian travel veteran, I must admit I was suffering somewhat from market fatigue. Moreover, this one was full of aggressive touts who don’t give you a second to process what you’re looking at. As a result, I made do with a cursory circuit and decided to buy my t-shirts elsewhere.

I’m really glad I held off until I got to Saigon Kitsch. In this trendy French-owned store, there are some really inventive Vietnam/Ho Chi Minh centric souvenirs. Yes, you’ll end up paying more than at the markets. But bear in mind the quality is much better and you get what you pay for.

They offer a vast range of propaganda prints, while I found myself tempted by their Saigon themed Monopoly. I also had a huge soft spot for their range of products based on the Mr. Men and Little Miss books by the English children’s author Roger Hargreaves. Those books were a staple of my younger years, so I couldn’t resist picking up a Mr. Banh Mi mouse mat. It set me back $7.

And yeah, Saigon Kitsch had me covered for t-shirts. Indeed I came away with a handful that day, including this cool “I need coffee” piece ($20). It’s a really fun store, and this is coming from someone who is not into shopping.

Cool Spots Around Ho Chi Minh.

Finally, I’ll always remember Ho Chi Minh for its unexpected hotel shenanigans. I was quite fond of Phuong Van Hotel, the alleyway joint mentioned at the beginning of this article.

My room was tiny but it had a big bed, an ensuite bathroom and a cosy retro design that included 1960s tiles and a large wooden work desk. But on my second day in the city, I woke up to the news that it had to close down immediately due to an “ownership dispute”.

Seriously, I had to pack up my stuff straight away and move into someone’s house next door! It was a ridiculous arrangement that saw me have to walk through the family living room each time I needed to access my room. I managed one night there before deciding to treat myself to a fancy hotel for the last few nights.

And that’s what I did, by relocating to the lovely Lotus Boutique Hotel. There, my deluxe room came with cable TV, air con, a safe, a reasonably priced minibar and a delicious bathtub that I sank into each night with a cold beer. The rate also included a complimentary buffet breakfast and access to the rooftop pool. I would recommend the place but sadly COVID has claimed it, along with so many others. R.I.P.

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