Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
2019-2024.
Despite my grumbles about aspects of the food and drink scene in Belgrade, there are plenty more recommended cafes, restaurants and bars to bring you. Following on from last week’s first instalment, here is my concluding batch of culinary locations from across the city. Let’s get stuck in!
Sladja and I have always enjoyed seeking out unusual and highly unique cafes wherever we are across the globe. In Belgrade top prize in this category goes to the highly charismatic Blaznavac Cafe-Bar.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Located on Kneginje Ljubice, you can’t really miss it, just look out for the floating elephant behind the entrance gates.
Blaznavac Cafe.
Passionately dedicated to Serbian history, local art and lush greenery, this vibrant cafe takes its name from the Serbian army general and politician Milivoje Blaznavac. And what an absolute character he was!
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Born in 1824, Blaznavac started professional life as a humble dyer before joining first the Serbian Army and then the police force. In 1842 he sided with the revolutionaries against the Obrenović dynasty, which bagged him a high-ranking position at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
A plaque in the cafe garden celebrating the life (and moustache) of Milivoje Blaznavac.
Later, Blaznavac played a key role in thwarting the deposed prince Miloš Obrenović‘s attempts to return to power. After travelling to Croatia, he gained the former prince’s trust while reporting everything back to Prince Alexander Karađorđević. I’m guessing that moustache afforded him a fantastic poker face.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
As a result of his unwavering loyalty, Blaznavac found himself rewarded with the position of Commander of the Military Department. However, everything he’d worked for came dramatically crashing down when Prince Miloš succeeded in regaining the throne in 1858. Oops!
Needless to say Blaznavac was now in big doo doo. And yet, much to my surprise, he was merely stripped of his titles and expelled from Belgrade. Seriously, I’d expected ol’ Miloš to have had him promptly executed.
Blaznavac Cafe.
Blaznavac looking somewhat guilty in the cafe garden.
Following Miloš’ death in 1860 Blaznavac was able to return to public life. Incredibly, he succeeded in working his way back up the ladder. First as Minister of War in 1865, later as one of three regent’s to Prince Milan Obrenović.
In fact, Milan trusted Blaznavac so much he appointed him as Prime Minister in 1872! How on earth he worked his way back into favour with the Obrenović family is beyond me. Talk about ballsy/cunning/dastardly.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Unfortunately for Blaznavac his reign as PM proved to be short-lived. He died suddenly of a heart attack on the 5th of April 1873 aged just 48 years old. You win some you lose some.
Milivoje Blaznavac (1824-1873).
Back to the cafe itself and here’s what is extra cool about the location. The building and garden once belonged to a close relative, Zivojin Blaznavac, who served as the warden of Belgrade between 1879 and 1887.
He gave the property to his daughter Julka as a wedding gift in 1886. And here she lived for decades with her family, servants and horses in a complex that, according to some historians, was the first Belgrade townhouse to have its own private swimming pool and horse’s stables.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
A quiet leafy corner table at Cafe Blaznavac.
As an elderly lady Julka was still living here during World War II when she reportedly had to share the place with Nazi officers. Now of course it enjoys a protected status as one of the city’s most popular social spots. On our first visit here we came for cocktails and managed to grab seats in the garden’s snazzy horse carriage.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Blaznavac Cafe.
On a later visit for brunch we tried out the food. We certainly weren’t disappointed! Sladja went for a beautifully soft and yolky Eggs Benedict on waffles, while I opted for a Blaznavac tray bake of eggs, tomato, red pepper, goat’s cheese, spinach, garlic and sour cream.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Blaznavac Cafe.
Another distinctive Belgrade restaurant is the terrific Villa Maska. This one also has a quirky entrance. But instead of a multicoloured elephant it’s this classic flower-laden Trabant 602 produced in East Germany in the 1960s.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Villa Maska.
The restaurant inhabits a gorgeous villa and garden that dates back to 1926 when it was built for a well-to-do Serbian family. Maska meanwhile used to be an antique home decor store situated in another part of the city that focused on art from The Far East, particularly Indonesian furniture.
Villa Maska.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II)
But in recent years they shut up shop and bought the old villa on Rankeova Street, creating a new enterprise where arty furnishings collide with food, drink and live music. The interior is a sight to behold, a great aunt’s attic kinda space packed with paintings, statues, models, lamps, mirrors, side tables and painted wooden soldiers.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Moreover, pretty much everything you see is for sale. Just ask the price and if the stars align you can take your choice piece home with you. The more you look the more you notice and discover. Indeed you never quite know what you might find, from a ceramic Betty Boop to a grinning carved wooden wall mask.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
But as fascinating as the interior is, in fine weather you’ll most likely choose to sit in Villa Maska’s spectacular courtyard garden. Leafy and shaded with an impressive network of twisting tree vines, it feels a world away from the city streets that lie just beyond the cafe’s protective walls.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
The garden at Villa Maska.
The food at Villa Maska (while hardly fine dining), has always been solid in our experience, no matter what you order. Their epic cheese and bacon burger hit the spot for me.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Burger time at Villa Maska.
We can also vouch for their coffee, jam and cream pancakes and golden toasties bursting at the seams with cheese and ham. Loved the sour cream dip that comes with that too.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
For a traditional Serbian choice, I can give a wholehearted thumbs up to the so-called Karađorđe’s schnitzel, a giant breaded veal cutlet stuffed with cheese.
Karađorđe’s schnitzel.
Milovan Mića Stojanović, the personal chef of President Tito, created the dish in 1956 when asked to make a Chicken Kiev type dinner for a distinguished visitor from the Soviet Union. Using some artistic license, he came up with his own version, throwing in some veal at the last moment due to a lack of available poultry.
Milovan Mića Stojanović, still going strong today at the age of 89 years old!
This next restaurant is a weird one to say the least, and a joint that continues the theme of being unique to the Serbian capital. I should start by saying that we are not fans of Novak Djokovic, the most successful tennis player in the history of the sport. As such, I had to think twice about whether I wanted to visit Novak Cafe, the restaurant he opened in Belgrade.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Cafe Novak.
In the end our curiosity got the better of us and we decided to see for ourselves what the place is all about. I’m not gonna go into why I dislike Djokovic, I feel those reasons are fairly obvious to anyone who’s followed his career.
And boy was I reminded of some of those reasons when we passed through the entrance hall to see a life-sized statue of the man carved in the style of a terracotta warrior. Ok…
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
If you’re a fan of Djokovic then Novak Cafe will almost certainly delight, especially in terms of the vast array of memorabilia on show. There are countless framed photos of him with his many awards along with a few actual trophies on display.
Novak Cafe.
Furthermore, there’s a towering transparent tube of tennis balls, a huge painting, signed t-shirts and a (usually locked) VIP room containing some of his most prized mementos.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Outside, a fountain gushing turquoise water features a glass panel of Novak lifting another trophy. “Because the food, drinks, and ambience carry the scent and taste of victory”, says the blurb.
Novak Cafe.
Back inside we picked out a free table in the main space where TV screens line the back wall. Tennis… football… basketball… American football… pretty much any significant sporting event broadcasts live here.
Novak Cafe & Restaurant.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
So… with all the cool interior design (ahem..) admired, what did our Cafe Novak experience truly boil down to? Well… there’s the usual cigarette smoke that hangs in a thick mist wherever you go.
A nicotine dream.
Then there’s the service. To be fair this was nowhere near our worst experience in the city. Our waiter was, how can I put it, “politely bored”. So disengaged in fact that he brought Sladja the wrong dish.
She ordered the “Beef kebabs in clotted cream” but instead got the “Serbian style beef burger with onion”. Our waiter did not offer to return it because “it’s almost the same”.
Novak Cafe. Bringing you the wrong meal since 2009.
I should point out that both dishes were really good. I went for the “Spicy Meatballs with pepper, cheddar and onion”. Overall I’d say that the place was worth seeing, even if my final rating is meh. What’s more, it seems we actually got off lightly if their recent reviews are anything to go by.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
“Serving” (do you see what I did there?) as the antidote to the Novak Cafe experience, we much preferred the ambience of this wonderful and somewhat under-the-radar garden restaurant, Mala Fabrika Ukusa. Which translates into English as Little Taste Factory.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Mala Fabrika Ukusa.
Opened in 2009, the restaurant specialises in modern twists to traditional Serbian dishes. Their garden is charming and unpretentious, so we took a discreet table as far away from a smoking family as possible.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Mala Fabrika Ukusa.
Happily, this proved to be one of the most relaxing meals we’ve ever had in Belgrade. And the food was top notch. We enjoyed Gibanica (Serbian pie) and Sarmice u Zelju (Swiss Chard Rolls) with breaded stuffed peppers, mashed potato and sour cream.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Next I’d like to share a pair of quirky surprises that we enjoyed. First, I had to smile when we stumbled upon Allo Allo Restaurant, which pays homage to the 1980s British comedy sitcom ‘Allo ‘Allo!
Allo Allo Restaurant.
The series was a staple on TV when I was a kid. Set in the French town of Nouvion during Germany’s occupation of France in World War II, it follows the life of cafe owner René Artois. With hilarious results he finds himself constantly dealing with problems related to the Nazis, the French resistance and indeed his own womanising ways.
Allo Allo!
The restaurant’s interior is stuffed with Allo Allo memorabilia.
Aside from the novelty factor, we found the food at Allo Allo to be decent if not amazing. We had a couple of beers, a solid Margherita pizza, a tangy salad and a side of ćevapi. Somehow, while ordering, I managed to resist the urge to tell the waiter: “Listen very carefully, I shall say zis only once”.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Another amusing find was The Intergalactic Diner, Belgrade’s take on the American diner experience. I’m not gonna pretend that this is anything like the real diners I’ve been to across The U.S. Far, far, from it. But it does have a fun vibe with its “welcome to all humanoids” and playful dish names like The Comet Dog and Supernova Soup.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Best of all, each booth comes with its own small retro jukebox. Basically you can request a song for a few dinars and it gets electronically added to your bill. Except no such charges appeared on our check when I went to pay. Result.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
On all three of our visits the food was great, the service… tolerable. Perfect for a sudden outbreak of uncontrollable fluffy pancake and thick creamy milkshake urges.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
The Intergalactic Diner.
When it comes to coffee Belgrade is a city that can rarely please us. Seriously, it’s tough to even find a joint that can serve coffee that isn’t lukewarm or cold. Finally, we decided that enough was enough and bought ourselves a Nespresso coffeemaker for the apartment.
Nevertheless, we did find a few lovely places that stood out from the crowd. One is an understated hole-in-the-wall establishment called Eklektika 40.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
A warm and personable Turkish man from Izmir runs this tiny joint. Popular for takeaway coffees and juices, he also has a small scattering of tables and chairs right on the curb. In the summer it’s a nice spot for a beer or glass of wine.
Eklektika 40.
Another place we like is Amélie Café, situated on the handsome Topličin venac in the heart of the old town where tables and chairs spill out onto the (mostly) pedestrianised street.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Initially we felt a touch disappointed that there wasn’t more of an Amélie theme going on (we love the film). However, this was soon swept aside as we toured the interior to pick our spot. Beautifully designed with a loose Parisian vibe, we appreciated the smooth jazz and antique sewing machine tables.
Amélie Café.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Amélie Café.
Elsewhere, Hyde Park Restaurant is another pretty place with thematic issues. No, there’s nothing Hyde Park-like about it, although I suppose it does feature another of Belgrade’s magnificent London plane trees. The main space is absolutely gorgeous though with its greenhouse windows looking onto a well-kept garden.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
And it’s in the garden that we chose to sit to enjoy our drinks. Away from the depressing waiters among the trees and chirping birds. It’s the perfect spot to come for a drink or a bite after visiting the nearby Museum of Yugoslavia.
Hyde Park Restaurant.
But if it’s drinks with an elevated view that you’re after look no further than Sinnerman’s Jazz Club, located in a towering building on Nikola Pašić Square. To find it keep your eyes peeled for Šoljica Coffee and head under the doorway to the cafe’s left side. There’s an elevator that will whisk you up to the 7th floor and the club’s entrance with its “Sinners welcome!” sign.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
As the name suggests there’s usually jazz music lilting across the rooftop space. Or if your luck is in maybe a live jazz band. Despite not being all that high there are some nice views across the square, down King Aleksander Boulevard and beyond.
Sinnerman Jazz Club.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Last but by no means least, let me take you to our favourite Belgrade pub. It’s called Monk’s Bar, an excellent music cafe that takes its name from the iconic American jazz pianist Thelonious Monk.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Arguably Belgrade’s best music bar.
This is a great place to come to kick back to jazz, blues, folk, reggae and classic rock. Some of the owner and staff’s favourite records adorn the wall, so there’s no doubting where their affections lie.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
Equally cosy is the leafy courtyard garden where we usually go to escape the cigarette smoke.
Monk’s Bar.
It’s a fine place, methinks, from which to drop the curtain on this Belgrade series. Thanks to everyone who’s followed along with us over the past twenty articles.
Where to Eat & Drink in Belgrade (Part (II).
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46 Comments
What quirky, delightful, suggestions. My mouth is watering! Thank for sharing. Bon Appetite!
Cheers for the read and comment! There are definitely some unique locations for food and drink in the Serbian capital.
What a selection of charming places for food, coffee and/or drinks, each with a unique story and allure. I am like you not a fan of Novak Djokovic, but I am quite surprised that he allowed his own restaurante to have such bad reputation. I really like the Blaznavac courtyard and their food looks great, the interior of Hyde Park restaurant and the cool ambience at Monk’s bar (great name). Well, done Leighton, your two articles are perfect guides for all foodies visiting Serbian capital, ‘ultimate’ as its popular to say these days. Have a nice Sunday.
You have to wonder how involved old Novak is in the running of the place. If it were me I’d be ashamed of the things that I read and heads would roll (rather than tennis balls). Thanks for your support throughout this Belgrade series Helena!
a fine end to a wonderful series leighton. 20 articles… once again you go way deeper than most and the two food round ups have been a fine curtain call. blaznavac cafe looks like a must visit i greatly enjoyed reading about the man himself even if he was a scoundrel. i also loved the story behind the belgrade schnitzel and that that gentleman is still going! I suspect that i would be at my happiest in a quiet corner of monks bar preferably away from the smoke. i once had a copy of brilliant corners on vinyl, its just marvellous.
I did think of you when we first stumbled upon Monk’s Bar. It’s a nice little spot and one I would have liked to visit more often than we did. Thanks Stan, as ever, for your reading and commenting appetite.
Blaznavac Cafe is one funky looking place with quite the history. Love the floating elephant and the gun, but why does it look like it is pointed at your head. Subliminal or deliberate? Villa Maska is pretty eclectic with all the art and bits and pieces. The Trabant is a nice touch and the perfect use for this auto. That garden area reminds me a bit of Tavern on the Green in New York, very whimsical. You certainly highlighted a lot of beautiful dining spots in this post. Even if the food sucked, the ambiance seems so inviting. Happy Sunday Leighton. Allan
Ha, maybe that gun was just kinda hanging there in anticipation that I might give a bad review. Thanks Allan for seeing another series through. They’re getting harder and harder to pull off with work commitments and the like. A little break now I think and then I’ll be back with a new country.
So many beautiful settings, but I’m surprised that in Djokovic’s restaurant there were different sports on the tv. I would have thought with so much boasting floating around, he would only show his own rematch wins!
Ha, you’re right Mallee, I think Novak and his team of advisers missed a trick there. Thanks so much for your readership across the series, it’s been great to finally finish all my Belgrade articles.
So many quirky places in Belgrade. For someone who said there aren’t many places to go for a good meal you have amassed a long list. The only one I’d likely not visit is Novak Cafe, for the same reasons you guys hesitated. 😊 Maggie
So far I’m only getting agreement when it comes to Djokovic. I dread to think what kind of comment I might receive should a fanboy/girl ever make it onto here and read this 😉 Thanks for following along through this Belgrade series Maggie.
I’m not sure I’d appreciate the “Sinners” Bar. Rather personal even if accurate. Without question, I prefer the outdoor gardens. Especially the horse carriage. Loved the convoluted back story to the Blaznavac Cafe. What a character, almost unbelievable. The variety of special meals left me wondering if the menus had English translations of if you depended on your translator. The waiter who brought the wrong dish and said that it was almost the same would have been inviting me to leave. Do they deliberately hire surly wait staff? Would have liked to try a bite of that giant schnitzel. Thanks for the tour. Looking forward to the next trip.
Ha, nobody likes being told they’re a sinner. Except perhaps that tennis player. Most menus had English translations thankfully but Sladja still definitely helped out with decoding a bunch of this stuff. Deliberately hiring assholes as waiters? Yeah, it does often feel like that could be the case in Belgrade. Thanks for joining us on yet another series Memo! 🙂
Enjoyed the series, Leighton! Blaznavac Cafe especially caught my eye, particularly with the fascinating history behind it. Lots of lovely gems in Belgrade, and I’m glad you got to try so much during your time there. 🙂
Thanks for your company on another series Rebecca. I’ll be doing some more blogs from Serbia later on in the year covering our travels across the country.
So is it fair to say that not all Serbians like Novak then? I see alot of the Serbians that go to his games are borderline psychos when it comes to their love of him! That is one cafe I’d definitely avoid, but I would enjoy the others for sure!
Umm… I can’t say I know all that many Serbians personally but it’s my impression that he is really popular overall. Sladja’s parents are big fans and indeed I have experienced a Djokovic title win at Wimbledon in their hometown. Plenty of whoops and cheers ringing around the various tower blocks of their neighbourhood.
Well I’m now suitably prepared on the food front for Belgrade, even down to expecting surly waiters. Slight aside…..you remember that I have only ever seen a tiny handful of films? Well, Michaela and I were once sat at a restaurant table in Paris, next to the window, and really couldn’t understand why passers by were stopping and taking our photo while we were eating. We just kept posing and smiling politely. We then learned that the restaurant (and I think specifically our table) were in a well known scene in the film Amelie. Which of course meant nothing to us! We probably ruined several dozen sought after shots that the takers had been yearning to get! Oops….
Thanks for your comment Phil. The Amelie cafe experience in Paris is one we’d like to have (minus loads of people photographing us) if we ever make it back to the French capital.
Great finale to your Belgrade series! That’s such an eclectic list of spots. I must say the pancake and milkshake caught my eye, maybe because it’s almost time for breakfast. I can’t imagine places not serving hot coffee, that seems easy to do! Blaznavac sure had a interesting, but short life!
Hey Lyssy, lukewarm/cold coffee is a cardinal sin in my book. We have questioned baristas about this in numerous cafes and there is a line of thought that the coffee shouldn’t be over-brewed and that people prefer it to be served at a “comfortable temperature”. Or “ready to drink” as they call it. I literally have no idea what they are talking about. Thanks for all your support of my Belgrade series! 🙂
I made sure to have lunch first before reading your post. Where to start? Of course … if I see a floating elephant, I will definitely stop by as well. And the story of Blaznavac’s life is as colourful as the restaurant. It’s definitely a place steeped with history (but also great food when I look at your photos). And just look at the lovely décor in Villa Maska (give me a cheese-and-ham toastie and I’m more than happy)! My brother and I loved Allo Allo (and I’ll say zis only once 🙂). I may not be hungry right now, but that creamy milkshake — yummy! I have to say that Belgrade’s restaurants impressed me quite a bit (well, the ones you showed anyway). Thank you for taking us on a culinary journey Leighton – great post!
How fantastic that you’ve not only heard of Allo Allo but you and your brother used to watch it back in the day. Thank you Corna for your enthusiastic responses and perceptive readership, it’s always appreciated. A little blogging break now and then I’ll be back with a new short story series and country.
Hey Leighton, it sounds like your life is complete, not only do you have a beautiful wife, but you’ve eaten at a restaurant with a multicolored floating elephant. 😉 Lovely assortment of themed restaurants. The American diner brings back pleasant memories. They all seem to have nice outdoor seating areas which is always a plus for us. Like you, the tennis themed restaurant is the least appealing to me. I enjoyed this series; thanks for sharing!
Ha, you made me laugh there Tricia. But you’re right, I have been feeling a general lack of drive and ambition in life ever since we hung out by that elephant. I bet you have eaten some truly magnificent U.S. diners, I have a string of greats on my travel CV but would like a few more at some point. Thanks for your support of the series Tricia.
I think what I really love about this collection of places is that all of them have kind of a colorful, off beat, completely unexpected yet gloriously different vibe to them. They seem like the kind of places that not only have good food, but places that really draw you in and want you to be part of the imagination 🙂
Hey Meg! I’m glad these eateries reeled you in. Belgrade definitely has some off-kilter food and drink venues that we enjoyed, particularly Blaznavac Cafe-Bar which is such a unique visual experience. Say hi to everyone there from us 🙂
will do 🙂 I hope you have a great weekend!
This is a wonderful cuisine guide, and very interesting history within these locations as well. The Mala Fabrika Ukusa restaurant looks awesome!
Hey Allie, thanks so much. Mala Fabrika Ukusa was one of our favourites, perhaps one of the quietest spots in Belgrade.
Quite a few off the wall type of places, weird and wonderful. Don’t do tennis but that bloke sure likes blowing his own trumpet but then again if you’ve made that much.
Yes there are few trumpets larger and shinier than the one blown by Novak Djokovic. To be honest had the food not been pretty good the entire experience would have been a …. err… double fault. Last game of the season this weekend, what a fantastic time at Loftus Road that must have been against Leeds. It’s days like those that make me really miss the place.
Amazing v Leeds and yesterday was a good trip bad news with the tv deal very few Saturday 3pms me thinks.
What an amazing selection – I love the Novak Cafe, what a place!
Hey Han, thanks for your comment. I’m surprised you picked that one considering the experience we and many others have had there. But I can appreciate that if one just looks at the photos that it seems like a fun, dynamic looking place.
Amazing tips, thank you!
Thanks for reading and commenting. 🙂
Haha, the photo of Terracotta Novak made me laugh! Certainly did not expect to see that. The other cafes look great. I really like the gardens and greenery. A really great list!
Thanks for diving into this culinary guide Amarachi! 🙂
I guess the food couldn’t have been that bad if you have a part 2 of where to eat and drink! It’s neat how you’ve done a lot of research into the cafes that you’ve visited. You could start a Belgrade cafe trivia! The courtyard garden at Villa Maska is gorgeous!
Ha, you know how Airbnb has those “experience” tours that locals offer. Not sure how many takers there would be for all my nuggets of history but you never know. It’s great to have you back, I hope all is well with you on your side of the pond.
We just got back from holidays with baby M. It went much better than I thought. I think she’s going to enjoy travelling as much as us (or at least being outdoors).
Wow she’s starting early! That’s a good sign.
You can’t go wrong with a mix of food and art! Thanks for taking us along on your Belgrade wanderings.
Thanks for catch up Ruth! 🙂