Leighton Moss & Warton Crag Nature Reserves.

Leighton Moss & Warton Crag Nature Reserves, Lancashire, England.

May 2019.

It was a warm afternoon as Uncle D and I set off on a hike from the village of Silverdale. Ok, it wasn’t exactly brimming with sunshine. Nor was it a proper blue sky day. But it was perfectly fine weather for getting to grips with nature, especially by English standards.

I’d only been in Lancashire for a few days, but was already loving the vibe of northwest England. My visit had been soaked in history, from the castle and witches of Lancaster to the 1940s-channeled cinematic delights of Carnforth. Now, in the interests of keeping things fresh, it felt right to be in the great outdoors tackling some of the region’s most impressive nature reserves.

Moreover, someone had even been kind enough to name the first stretch of our hike after me! Indeed Leighton Moss Nature Reserve is a stunning area of dotted woodland, rolling fields and extended wetland. A chunk of Lancashire that has been under the protection of the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) since 1964. In fact, just a few minutes into our walk, we spotted a park keeper wearing an RSPB jacket.

Leighton Moss & Warton Crag Nature Reserves.

One reason Leighton Moss fell under protection is that it hosts one of England’s largest areas of reed beds. This provides essential habitats for a wide variety of animals, including dozens of bird species. 

The RSPB also does a good job telling you about the reserve’s various residents. This was particularly useful to a simpleton like me who doesn’t know a Water rail from a Spoonbill.

One of many info boards (pictured below) focuses on the bittern, whose deep squawk can be heard from up to three miles away. This is usually to draw in the ladies, or to warn other male bitterns to stay out of his territory. Currently the bittern population is flourishing in the reserve after being critically endangered in the 1990s.

Furthermore, the reserve is home to seven wooden hides where visitors can observe the local wildlife at play. We popped into one that day, but were unable to grab a coveted bench spot.

Exploring Lancashire.

Serious birdwatchers had even brought their own binoculars, a vast improvement on my trusty Sony Cybershot. Nevertheless, I was able to hone in on the reeds with a few closeish shots.

By the hide, another information board enlightened me to what’s going on under the water, well away from the attention of my lens. There, lives a sizeable community of European Eels, quite incredible creatures that start out as eggs 4000 miles away in The Bahamas.

When the egg hatches into larvae, it drifts towards UK shores, a process that takes around 300 days. Next the larvae transforms into glass eels that search for fresh water. Then they turn into miniature eels, known as elvers, before eventually becoming adults. Finally, they set off on the return journey to The Bahamas in order to breed.

Back on the trail, we passed a number of lush green fields with grazing sheep and cows. There were some wonderful smells as we progressed, such as the heady fragrance of meadowsweet. This flowering plant often finds its way into herbal medicines because of its useful antacid properties.

A short while later we arrived at none other than Leighton Hall, an historic country house built in the late 1750s. Originally constructed for the wealthy Towneley family, it later came under the ownership of Mr. Richard Gillow. He was the grandson of Robert Gillow, the hugely successful owner of Gillows of Lancaster and London.

Leighton Moss & Warton Crag Nature Reserves.

Back in those days the land that is now Leighton Moss was Gillow’s very own private playground. However, much of it was little more than marshland. Thus Gillow ordered the land to be drained so that he could turn it into farmland.

And so the grounds soon became one of northwest England’s most successful grain farms. Known as The Golden Valley, its reputation blossomed until 1918 when flooding brought production to a standstill. Draining it again, apparently, was simply not economical. Consequently, the land became little more than a duck shooting range for Leighton Hall’s wealthy owners.

I would have loved to tour Leighton Hall, but alas it was closed that day. Next time, Gadget. Hence Uncle D and I pushed on up the neighbouring steep hill, which made for some great views looking back down at the house.

As we went, it was amusing to see an orienteering group pass by. Their leader was throwing out instructions, in an exasperated sort of way. I’m not sure what they were carrying in those backpacks, but a few of them appeared to be on the verge of toppling over under the weight.

“They’re doing the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme“ Uncle D explained. This brought back memories of my own DofE adventures back in my boarding school days as a teenager. Pretty sure I never made it to gold.

Exploring Lancashire.

At the top of the hill we paused for a well deserved breather. The views back down across the reserve and beyond were gorgeous. It was just us and a benched couple whispering together under the drooping branches of a nearby tree. The perfect spot to devour the little picnic we’d brought from home.

From there we edged out of Leighton Land on a route to Warton Crag Nature Reserve. Moving through Storrs Lane, we passed a few fine farmhouses and several fields inhabited by handsome horses.

At last, on Coach Lane, it was time to branch off onto Occupation Road. This would lead us deep into the reserve and up to the summit of Warton Crag. You can’t miss the turning off point, as it’s right to the side of Greylands, a splendid residence that stands as one of Warton Village’s most prestigious homes. Built in 2010, it has a modern, open plan design and excellent views over The Lune Valley.

As for Occupation Road… well… it isn’t really a road. Rather, it’s an ascending stone bridal path that certainly requires a touch of fitness. Back in ancient times people from all over the region used the path to transport cattle back and forth to the various markets. Indeed some people still refer to the path as Old Drover’s Road in reference to the cattle drovers of yore.

Leighton Moss & Warton Crag Nature Reserves.

Happily our efforts were well rewarded, the forest becoming thicker and more silent the further we progressed. As for Warton Crag itself, this limestone hill has a history of over ten thousand years. According to historians, there was once likely an Iron Age fort here. Indeed signs of early life have been uncovered in a number of caves, including markings and a handful of hunting artefacts.

That day we were keen to head straight for the summit, a flat grassy platform with a trig point and a beacon. It was hard work scrambling up there but of course we managed and, lo and behold, the sky even celebrated our achievement with a bit of blue.

The beacon stands in honour of the bonfire lit atop the crag back in 1588. Its light was meant to warn people that the Spanish Armada would soon be advancing in a bid to relieve England of its protestant Elizabeth I. Thankfully such an invasion never came.

From the top of the crag the views stretch… and stretch. Before us stood a breathtaking English vista over Carnforth Village, the city of Lancaster and of course the town of Morecambe and its pretty bay.

Exploring Lancashire.

It was a lovely moment and a fitting end to a brilliant afternoon hiking through two of Lancashire’s most beautiful nature reserves.

Below us, down in the village of Warton, lay a thoroughly deserved pint and some startling history. At least to me, who was as yet unaware of Warton Village’s bewitching backstory. More on that in my next post.

Like this? Why not leaf through my other articles from Lancashire.

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